Overview🔗

The Yorkshire Dales National Park offers 2,179 square kilometres (841 square miles) of cycling terrain that ranges from gentle valley floors to punishing high-level passes. When Stage 1 of the 2014 Tour de France rolled through these hills, it put Yorkshire's climbs on the international map—particularly the Buttertubs Pass, which became an instant classic. But local riders have known for decades what makes cycling in the Yorkshire Dales special: challenging gradients, spectacular limestone scenery, and roads so quiet you can hear skylarks over the sound of your freehub.

The defining characteristic of Dales cycling is the quality of the climbing. These aren't long Alpine ascents—most climbs clock in at 3-8 km (1.9-5 miles)—but they punch hard. Gradients regularly hit 15-20%, with Park Rash notoriously topping out at 25%. The other key feature is the road surface: most passes are well-maintained single-track roads with passing places, meaning minimal traffic and maximum immersion in the landscape of dry stone walls, hay meadows, and dramatic escarpments.

The region's cycling infrastructure has matured significantly since the Tour de France. You'll find bike-friendly accommodation throughout the Dales, well-stocked bike shops in market towns like Hawes and Settle, and cafés that genuinely understand cyclists' caloric needs. The roads themselves are shared courteously—this is an area where farming culture and cycling culture have learned to coexist, though you should still be prepared for tractors and sheep on narrow roads.

Classic Climbs🔗

Buttertubs Pass🔗

The jewel in the Dales cycling crown, Buttertubs Pass connects Wensleydale and Swaledale via a 526-metre summit that featured prominently in the 2014 Tour de France. There are two approaches, and both deliver. From Hawes (the south side), the climb is 5.6 km (3.5 miles) at an average of 5.6%, but the gradient varies dramatically—gentle stretches of 3-4% give way suddenly to ramps of 10-12%. The real sting comes in the final kilometre, where the road kicks up to 8-9% as you approach the cattle grid at the summit. The Strava segment Buttertubs from Hawes has been crowned by over 15,000 riders.

The Muker (north) side is steeper and more scenic, with 5.3 km (3.3 miles) at 6.2% average. This approach throws you straight into 9-10% gradients from the village, maintaining that intensity for the first 2 km before easing slightly through sweeping corners with spectacular views down into Swaledale. The eponymous buttertubs—deep limestone shafts beside the road near the summit—are worth the photo stop, though you'll be more focused on your breathing than geology on the way up.

Road surface is excellent on both sides—freshly resurfaced in recent years thanks to Tour legacy funding. Expect minimal traffic, especially early morning. The descent on either side requires full attention: steep gradients, tight corners, and the occasional sheep wandering across the road keep you honest. [VERIFY: exact elevation gain from Hawes - approximately 280m]

Fleet Moss🔗

At 589 metres (1,932 feet), Fleet Moss is the highest paved road in Yorkshire and one of the most remote-feeling climbs in England. The standard ascent starts from Hawes, tackling 8.5 km (5.3 miles) at 4.8% average—not savage by Dales standards, but relentless. What makes Fleet Moss special is the landscape: as you climb above the valley, the terrain becomes increasingly barren, with moorland stretching to the horizon and nothing but the sound of wind and your own labored breathing.

The gradient is manageable—mostly 5-7% with brief easier sections—but the exposed nature of the climb means wind can be a brutal factor. On a still summer morning, Fleet Moss is a meditative grind. In anything approaching a westerly gale, it becomes an entirely different proposition. The road surface is generally good, though winter weather takes its toll at this altitude; expect some rougher patches, particularly in the final 2 km where you're fully exposed on the moorland plateau.

The descent towards Oughtershaw and Langstrothdale is technical—narrow, with steep drop-offs and no barriers in places. It's also stunningly beautiful, dropping into a hidden valley that feels like a secret even though it's on the main road. Fleet Moss often features in the Etape du Dales sportive and makes a superb addition to any Hawes-based loop.

Kidstones Pass🔗

Kidstones Pass is where the Dales shows its teeth. This 4.3 km (2.7 mile) climb from Bishopdale to the summit at 478 metres averages 7.2%, but that figure masks some genuinely vicious sections. The first kilometre eases you in at 4-5%, then the road rears up to 12-14% for an extended stretch through tight switchbacks. Just when you think you've broken the back of it, the final 500 metres kick up to 17% in places, with one particularly brutal ramp that has locals grimacing in recognition.

The road is narrow—single track with passing places—and winds through typical Dales scenery of stone walls and sheep pastures. Surface quality is acceptable but not perfect; you'll encounter some broken edges and the occasional pothole, particularly after harsh winters. Traffic is light, though you may need to tuck into a passing place for the occasional 4x4 or farm vehicle.

The descent toward Wharfedale is fast and technical, with steep gradients and tight corners demanding full concentration. Kidstones works beautifully in loop routes combining Wensleydale and Wharfedale, and it's a less-traveled alternative to the more famous passes—you'll often have the road entirely to yourself. [VERIFY: exact maximum gradient - reported between 17-18%]

Park Rash🔗

If you want to understand why British climbers punch above their weight internationally, come and ride Park Rash. This 1.8 km (1.1 mile) monster from Kettlewell averages 12.6%, but the average tells you nothing. The climb starts at 15%, immediately letting you know this is serious, then escalates through a series of savage ramps that top out at 25%—among the steepest stretches of paved road in Britain. It's short enough that you can't pace it, brutal enough that you can't power through it. Most riders end up in survival mode, grinding it out in bottom gear while the gradient tries to push them backward.

The road surface is narrow and rough in places, adding a technical dimension to the physical challenge. You'll be picking lines around potholes and broken edges while simultaneously trying not to stall on 20%+ gradients. The compensation is the dramatic setting: steep limestone scars rising on one side, views across Upper Wharfedale opening up as you gain height. Park Rash also features a fast, technical descent that requires strong bike handling—this is not a climb where you can relax on the way down.

Park Rash is a rite of passage for Yorkshire cyclists and frequently appears in local sportives and challenge rides. If you clean it without stopping, you've earned serious bragging rights. The climb connects Kettlewell to the high road toward Coverdale, making it useful for extended loops, though many riders come specifically to test themselves against its savage gradients.

Tan Hill🔗

At 528 metres (1,732 feet), the Tan Hill Inn holds the title of Britain's highest pub—making it an irresistible target for cyclists who appreciate a pint with a view. The climb from Keld in Swaledale is 6.8 km (4.2 miles) at 4.9% average, but like most Dales climbs, the gradient varies substantially. The first section climbs steadily at 6-7% through classic Dales scenery, before the road levels briefly across open moorland. The final push to the pub ramps up again to 7-8%, with the isolated stone building appearing on the horizon like a mirage.

What makes Tan Hill memorable isn't the gradient—it's the location. You're climbing into remote moorland where the landscape feels genuinely wild. This is grouse moor and sheep country, with curlews calling and vast horizons in every direction. The pub itself is a welcome sight, offering proper food, local ales, and the satisfaction of having ridden to one of England's most remote locations. The road continues northward toward Brough, but most cyclists treat Tan Hill as a destination, enjoying the descent back to Keld.

Road surface is generally decent, though the exposed moorland location means weather can deteriorate rapidly. What starts as a pleasant summer ride can turn into a battle against sidewinds and rain in the space of an hour. Check forecasts and carry waterproofs—the pub is a welcome refuge, but you still need to get back down.

Best Routes & Loops🔗

Classic Dales Loop: Hawes-Buttertubs-Swaledale Circuit🔗

This 72 km (45 mile) loop with 1,350m of climbing is the quintessential Yorkshire Dales ride, combining the iconic Buttertubs Pass with stunning Swaledale scenery. Start from Hawes—park at the National Park Centre car park—and head north on the B6270 through Wensleydale to the base of Buttertubs. The south side climb eases you in before the summit views reward the effort. Descend the technical north side into Swaledale, then turn right through Muker and Gunnerside, two perfect stone-built villages that epitomize Dales character.

From Reeth, the valley road rolls gently eastward before you turn south over the smaller but scenic Grinton Moor climb (422m summit, steady 5-6% gradients). This deposits you into Wensleydale near Leyburn. Turn west here for the long, gentle valley road back to Hawes—mostly flat to slightly descending, giving your legs a chance to recover. Factor in stops at Muker Village Store & Tearooms for coffee and the Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes for post-ride cheese. The loop works equally well clockwise or anticlockwise; most riders prefer the Buttertubs climb from Hawes to get the main effort done early.

Road conditions throughout are good, with the Buttertubs section excellent. Traffic is light except in Hawes itself and around Leyburn. Allow 4-5 hours with stops, or 3-3.5 hours for a brisk effort. [VERIFY: exact elevation gain - estimated 1,350m total]

Three Peaks Challenge Route🔗

The Three Peaks of Yorkshire—Pen-y-ghent, Whernside, and Ingleborough—are famous among hikers, but the road circuit around them delivers superb cycling with sustained climbing and dramatic limestone scenery. This 78 km (48.5 mile) loop from Settle packs in 1,500m of elevation gain across rolling terrain that never quite lets up. The route isn't about single iconic climbs; it's about cumulative fatigue across multiple ascents on undulating roads.

From Settle, head north through Stainforth (brief steep climb at 15%) to Horton in Ribblesdale, then tackle the steady grind over Cam High Road—a remote, exposed section that tops out at 485m. Descend into Wensleydale, then turn south over Widdale (375m), another sustained moorland climb. The route continues through Ribblehead—pause to admire the iconic railway viaduct—before the final rolling section back to Settle via Clapham. The road surfaces vary from excellent on main roads to rougher on the high moorland sections.

This is a challenging full-day ride—allow 5-6 hours with breaks. Key stops include The Pen-y-ghent Café in Horton (legendary among hikers and cyclists alike) and The Station Inn at Ribblehead for substantial food. Weather can change rapidly at altitude, so carry layers even in summer. The route showcases a different side of the Dales—wider, wilder landscapes with views to distant peaks.

Etape du Dales Sportive Route🔗

Created to celebrate the Tour de France legacy, the Etape du Dales offers 120 km (75 miles) and 2,100m of climbing that threads together many of the region's finest passes. The full route starts from Settle and heads north through Ribblesdale before tackling Fleet Moss—the psychological crux of the ride at 589m. After descending to Kettlewell, you face the brutal Park Rash climb, followed by rolling terrain through Coverdale and over Kidstones Pass into Wharfedale.

The route continues south through Wharfedale to Buckden, then climbs over Cray Moor before the final major challenge: the Halton Gill climb at 10% average. The last 20 km rolls back to Settle through Littondale—still undulating, but feeling flat compared to what's come before. This is a serious undertaking that will challenge even experienced cyclists. The combination of cumulative climbing and steep individual pitches makes it tougher than many Alpine sportives of similar distance.

The official event runs annually in May with full road closure and support, but the route is rideable year-round. Outside the event, you'll need to be self-sufficient—carry tools, spares, and sufficient food. The remoteness of sections like Fleet Moss and upper Coverdale means phone signal can be patchy. Budget 7-9 hours for the full route. Shorter options exist, including a 90 km medium route that skips Park Rash.

When to Visit🔗

The Yorkshire Dales cycling season runs from May through September, with July and August offering the most reliable weather. That said, "reliable" is relative—this is northern England, and you should expect changeable conditions even in midsummer. May and early June bring longer days and quieter roads before school holidays begin. The landscape is at its greenest, wild flowers bloom in the hay meadows, and temperatures typically range from 12-18°C (54-64°F). June can be surprisingly dry, though moorland mist is common in mornings.

July and August see peak temperatures of 18-22°C (64-72°F), though the high passes remain cooler—expect temperatures 3-5°C lower at 500m+ elevation. These months bring more tourists, particularly to honey-pot villages like Grassington and Malham. Start early to beat traffic and enjoy the best conditions. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer; the open moorland climbs become exposed and potentially dangerous in lightning.

September offers the sweet spot for many cyclists: settled weather, autumn colors beginning to show, and significantly fewer tourists. Temperatures remain rideable at 14-18°C (57-64°F), and roads return to relative quiet after school holidays end. October can still deliver good riding, but daylight hours shrink rapidly and the weather becomes increasingly unpredictable. Winter (November-March) is genuinely harsh in the high Dales—snow closes passes, ice makes descents treacherous, and temperatures can drop well below freezing. Some hardy locals ride through winter, but this is for experienced all-weather cyclists only.

Spring (April-early May) sees improving conditions but variable weather—you might encounter sunshine and 15°C one day, sleet and 5°C the next. Check road status before riding high passes in early spring; Fleet Moss and Tan Hill can remain snow-affected into May. For multi-day trips, June and September offer the best balance of weather, daylight, and road quietness.

Where to Stay🔗

Hawes sits at the heart of classic Dales cycling terrain, making it the ideal base for accessing Buttertubs, Fleet Moss, and surrounding routes. The town offers numerous bike-friendly B&Bs and small hotels. The Herriot Hotel provides secure bike storage and drying facilities, while Simonstone Hall (3 km outside Hawes) offers upmarket accommodation with excellent cyclist services. Hawes itself has a bike shop (Stage 1 Cycles), cafés including The Courtyard Dairy Café, and the Wensleydale Creamery. The town can feel quiet in evenings—this is rural Yorkshire, not a cycling resort—but that's part of the charm.

Settle provides excellent access to Three Peaks routes and the southern Dales. The town is larger than Hawes with more dining options, including The Naked Man Café (cyclist-friendly, good coffee) and several pubs serving food. Three Peaks Cycles offers sales, repairs, and bike hire. Accommodation ranges from budget B&Bs to The Lion at Settle, a coaching inn with bike storage. Settle's advantage is better transport links—the Settle-Carlisle railway line offers scenic connections, and the town sits on better road routes from Manchester and Leeds.

Grassington, in Wharfedale, offers a different vibe—more polished and touristy, with excellent food options and well-established cycling accommodation. The Grassington House Hotel caters specifically to cyclists with wash facilities, secure storage, and early breakfasts. The town provides easy access to Kidstones Pass, Park Rash, and the Wharfedale valley roads. It's also within striking distance of Buttertubs and Fleet Moss for longer rides.

Skipton sits at the southern gateway to the Dales, offering the most accommodation options and best transport connections (direct trains from Leeds and Bradford). It's less immersive—you'll need to ride 20-30 km to reach the high country—but works well for shorter trips or if you want town amenities. For a truly remote experience, consider Keld Youth Hostel in upper Swaledale—basic but perfectly located for Tan Hill and wild moorland riding. Book well ahead in summer; the Dales' accommodation fills rapidly during peak season, especially during cycling events like the Etape du Dales.

Getting There & Around🔗

By car, the Yorkshire Dales sit approximately 1.5 hours from Manchester, 1 hour from Leeds, and 2.5 hours from Newcastle. The M6 motorway provides access from the west (exit Junction 36 for Kirkby Lonsdale, then A65 to Settle), while the A1(M) serves from the east (exit at Scotch Corner, then A66 and A6108 to Wensleydale). The A65 from Leeds via Ilkley and Skipton is the main southern approach. Roads into the Dales are scenic but winding—factor in extra time, especially through Wharfedale and Ribblesdale where narrow roads slow progress.

Public transport is viable but requires planning. Skipton has excellent rail connections—Northern Rail services from Leeds (40 minutes) and Bradford, with less frequent trains from Lancaster and Carlisle on the scenic Leeds-Settle-Carlisle line. The railway accepts bikes outside peak hours, though space is limited and advance booking recommended. Settle also sits on the Settle-Carlisle line, making it accessible without a car. From Skipton or Settle, local buses serve main Dales villages, though services are infrequent—check the Dales Bus timetable and note that Sunday services are minimal.

Flying into Manchester Airport (1.5 hours to Settle) or Leeds Bradford Airport (1 hour to Skipton) works for international visitors. Manchester offers better connections and more rental car options. Some cyclists combine Dales riding with a Manchester or Leeds city break—easy enough with a car, more challenging on public transport with bikes. Bringing your own bike by air is straightforward through Manchester; LBA is smaller with more limited facilities.

Once based in the Dales, you won't need a car—the road network is compact enough that everything is rideable from a single base. The exception is if you're staying in Skipton and want to avoid the 20-30 km approach to the high country each day; in that case, you might drive to Grassington, Settle, or Hawes and start rides from there. Parking is available in all main villages—free in most places, small fees in tourist hotspots like Grassington and Malham. Arrive early in summer weekends; car parks fill by mid-morning.

Practical Information🔗

Bike Shops & Services🔗

Stage 1 Cycles in Hawes (Burtersett Road, 01969 667770) offers repairs, spares, and local route advice. They know the roads intimately and can provide current conditions for high passes. Opening hours are limited in winter. Three Peaks Cycles in Settle (Duke Street, 01729 824232) provides comprehensive workshop services, bike hire, and a good stock of spares. In Skipton, The Bicycle Lounge and Chevin Cycles both offer full services and are open seven days in summer. For emergencies, carry a comprehensive toolkit and spares—remote sections like Fleet Moss and upper Swaledale are far from help.

Cyclist-Friendly Cafés & Stops🔗

The Pen-y-ghent Café in Horton in Ribblesdale is legendary—substantial breakfasts, homemade cakes, and a walker/cyclist safety registration service. The Courtyard Dairy Café in Hawes serves excellent coffee and cheese-focused lunches. Muker Village Store & Tearooms offers mid-ride refueling in upper Swaledale with outdoor seating overlooking the valley. The Naked Man Café in Settle has become a cycling hub with good coffee, wifi, and bike-friendly staff who understand fueling requirements.

Grassington has multiple options including Cobblestones Coffee Shop and The Granary Café. In Kettlewell, The Blue Bell Inn welcomes cyclists and serves food all day in summer. For remote riding, the Tan Hill Inn is the only option for miles—it serves food daily and has basic facilities. Always carry sufficient food and water; sections like Fleet Moss and Kidstones Pass have no services, and moorland weather can turn rides into longer efforts than planned.

Weather & Road Conditions🔗

Yorkshire Dales weather is notoriously changeable. Temperature drops approximately 6°C per 1,000m of elevation, meaning high passes like Fleet Moss (589m) can be 3-4°C cooler than valleys even in summer. Wind is a significant factor on exposed moorland climbs—westerlies are common and can turn Fleet Moss or Tan Hill into serious battles. Always carry a windproof jacket, even on sunny days. Rain can arrive rapidly; pack waterproofs and be prepared for conditions to deteriorate, especially on longer rides.

Road surfaces are generally good on main routes, excellent on sections resurfaced for the Tour de France. High moorland roads (Fleet Moss upper sections, Tan Hill, Cam High Road) can be rougher with broken edges and potholes—winter takes its toll at altitude. Descents require full attention: steep gradients, tight corners, and the occasional sheep or farm vehicle demand strong bike handling. Most passes are single-track with passing places; be prepared to stop for oncoming traffic.

Mobile phone coverage is patchy on high passes and in remote valleys. Download offline maps and routes before riding. Emergency services can be reached on 999, but response times to remote locations can be significant—carry basic first aid kit and be self-sufficient. The nearest A&E departments are in Lancaster, Harrogate, and Bradford—all 45+ minutes from central Dales locations. Ride within your limits, especially when alone on remote passes.

Final Tips🔗

Gearing matters in the Dales. Compact chainsets (50/34) with an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette are minimum recommended for climbs like Park Rash and Kidstones Pass. If you're riding a standard chainset (53/39), you'll suffer on 20%+ ramps. Consider a climbing-specific setup if tackling multiple passes in a day. Tire choice also matters—25mm or wider provides better comfort and grip on rough moorland sections and steep descents.

Respect the farming community—close gates behind you, give way to farm vehicles, and don't block field entrances when parking. During lambing season (March-May), be especially cautious around sheep. The Dales is a working landscape, not a theme park; cyclists who understand this are welcomed, those who don't aren't. Local cycling etiquette includes acknowledging other riders with a nod or hand raise—this is friendly territory where the cycling community is still small enough to be collegial.

For multi-day itineraries, consider a two or three-night base. Day one: ease in with the Classic Dales Loop (72 km). Day two: tackle the Etape du Dales full route or a modified version hitting Fleet Moss and Park Rash. Day three: recovery ride through valley roads or explore quieter passes like Kidstones and Cray Moor. This approach lets you experience the full spectrum of Dales cycling without burning out on relentless climbing. The landscape rewards those who stay long enough to ride in different conditions and see how the hills change from misty morning to golden evening light.