England's Ultimate Cycling Challenge
The Lake District is home to Britain's most dramatic mountain passes, including Hardknott Pass with gradients reaching 30% - England's steepest road. This UNESCO World Heritage landscape offers legendary climbs, breathtaking scenery, and some of the most challenging cycling in the UK.
Cycling in the Lake District offers an experience unlike anywhere else in Britain. This UNESCO World Heritage Site encompasses England's highest mountains, deepest lakes, and most importantly for cyclists, some of the steepest and most dramatic road passes in the country. The Lakeland passes are legendary - Hardknott, Wrynose, Honister, and Kirkstone have tested generations of cyclists with gradients that regularly exceed 20% and, in Hardknott's case, reach a leg-breaking 30%.
The Lake District's 2,362 square kilometres contain over 200 peaks (locally called 'fells'), 16 major lakes, and a network of narrow mountain roads that weave between them. For road cyclists, this translates to relentless climbing, technical descents on single-track roads, and scenery so spectacular it's almost distracting. The region has become a pilgrimage site for serious cyclists, particularly those training for the Fred Whitton Challenge, the 112-mile (180 km) sportive that tackles seven major passes and 3,000 metres of climbing in a single brutal day.
Unlike the wide, sweeping cols of the Alps or Pyrenees, Lake District passes are characterised by narrow, winding single-track roads with steep gradients, sharp hairpins, cattle grids, and passing places rather than lanes. The weather adds another dimension - the Lake District is Britain's wettest region, receiving over 3,000mm of annual rainfall in some areas. This creates lush, green landscapes but also means cyclists need to be prepared for rapidly changing conditions, slippery descents, and the possibility of rain on any day of the year.
Legendary Passes🔗
The Lake District's mountain passes are the main attraction for serious cyclists. These aren't gentle climbs - expect brutal gradients, technical surfaces, and challenges that will test even the fittest riders. Here are the climbs that define Lakeland cycling:
Hardknott Pass🔗
Hardknott Pass is England's steepest road and the ultimate test for any cyclist. From the west (Eskdale), the climb is 2.4 km (1.5 miles) with an average gradient of 13.5%, but those numbers don't tell the full story. Multiple sections hit 25-30%, including a notorious ramp at approximately 1.5 km that maxes out at 30% - a gradient so steep that many cyclists are forced to walk, and even cars struggle. The eastern approach from Wrynose Pass is slightly less severe but still brutal, averaging 10% over 2.1 km.
The road surface is rough in places, with sections of loose gravel and potholes that require careful line choice. Three tight hairpin bends punctuate the western ascent, each one a test of low-speed bike handling. At the summit (393m), you'll find the remains of Hardknott Roman Fort (Mediobogdum), a remarkably well-preserved 2nd-century fortification that's worth stopping to explore if your legs can handle the additional walking. The descent requires absolute concentration - steep gradients, hairpins, and narrow sections mean you'll be on the brakes constantly.
Pro tip: Approach Hardknott from the west (Eskdale) for the full challenge. Use your lowest gear from the start - you'll need it. If you're riding this for the first time, don't be ashamed to walk the steepest sections. Many experienced cyclists do.
Wrynose Pass🔗
Wrynose Pass (393m) is almost always tackled in combination with Hardknott, forming one of Britain's most feared cycling combinations. While technically less steep than its neighbour, Wrynose is still a serious climb with gradients reaching 25% on the western approach from Little Langdale. The climb is 2.3 km (1.4 miles) from the west with an average of 9%, featuring several steep ramps and hairpins that will have you grinding in your easiest gears.
The eastern side from Cockley Beck is more gradual but still challenging, averaging around 7% over a similar distance. The summit offers stunning views across the Langdale Pikes and, on clear days, you can see across to Morecambe Bay. The road is single-track for much of its length with passing places, meaning you'll need to be aware of approaching vehicles, particularly tourist coaches in summer which can make the narrow sections extremely challenging.
Kirkstone Pass🔗
At 454m, Kirkstone Pass is the highest pass in the Lake District accessible by road and connects Ambleside with Ullswater via the Kirkstone Pass Inn at the summit. The southern approach from Ambleside is the longest sustained climb in the Lake District, covering 6.5 km (4 miles) with an average gradient of 7.3%. While not as viciously steep as Hardknott or Wrynose, the relentless nature of this climb - steady gradients rarely dropping below 6% - makes it a serious test of endurance.
The road is wider and better surfaced than Hardknott or Wrynose, making it popular with tourist traffic, particularly in summer. The northern descent to Ullswater is fast and flowing, dropping 400m over 7 km with spectacular views across Brothers Water and Ullswater. The Kirkstone Pass Inn at the summit, which claims to be England's third-highest pub, offers a welcome stop, though opening hours can be variable [VERIFY: current pub operating status].
Honister Pass🔗
Honister Pass (356m) is a dramatic climb from either direction, passing through England's last working slate mine at the summit. From Borrowdale to the north, the climb is 4.2 km with an average gradient of 8%, including several sections at 12-15% and one particularly steep hairpin that reaches 20%. The southern approach from Buttermere is slightly gentler overall but still features challenging gradients, averaging 6.5% over 5 km with ramps to 15%.
The pass feels more enclosed than others, with steep slate-covered fellsides rising dramatically on both sides. The Honister Slate Mine at the summit offers tours and a café, making it a good stopping point. The via ferrata climbing routes on the cliffs above the pass are spectacular to watch. Road conditions are generally good, though slate debris can accumulate on the road surface, particularly after heavy rain, so be cautious on descents.
Newlands Pass🔗
Newlands Pass (333m) is a quieter alternative to the more famous passes, connecting the Newlands Valley with Buttermere. From the Keswick side, the climb is 5.8 km with an average gradient of 5.7%, making it one of the more manageable Lake District passes, though there are still sections reaching 12%. The road is very narrow - single-track for much of its length - but receives far less traffic than Kirkstone or Honister.
The scenery is stunning, with the climb offering views across to Catbells and Derwentwater, while the descent to Buttermere provides spectacular vistas of the lake and surrounding fells. This pass is particularly beautiful in late spring when the valley is green and the higher fells still have snow. The quiet roads and slightly gentler gradients make Newlands an excellent choice for a first Lake District pass experience or for building into longer loop routes around Keswick.
Whinlatter Pass🔗
Whinlatter Pass (322m) is the lowest and gentlest of the main Lake District passes, but don't let that fool you into thinking it's easy. The climb from Braithwaite (near Keswick) is 5.3 km with an average gradient of 6%, while the western approach from Lorton is similar. What makes Whinlatter distinctive is its forest setting - the pass runs through England's only true mountain forest, with dense conifer plantations lining much of the route.
The road is wider and better maintained than most Lake District passes, with the added benefit of the Whinlatter Forest Park Visitor Centre at the summit, which offers excellent facilities, a café, and bike wash. The pass is part of the Fred Whitton Challenge route and often used as a warm-up or training climb by cyclists preparing for the harder passes. The forest setting provides some shelter from wind but can be dark and damp even on bright days.
Best Routes🔗
The Lake District's pass-based geography lends itself to circular routes that link multiple climbs. These are the classic loops that showcase the best of Lakeland cycling:
Fred Whitton Challenge Route🔗
The Fred Whitton Challenge is the ultimate Lake District cycling test - 112 miles (180 km) with 3,000 metres of climbing taking in seven major passes. The official sportive is held annually in May and regularly sells out months in advance, but the route can be ridden any time. Starting and finishing in Coniston, the route tackles Kirkstone, Struggle, Honister, Newlands, Whinlatter, Hardknott, and Wrynose passes in that order, saving the hardest until the riders are already exhausted.
This is not a route for beginners or those unprepared. The combination of distance, climbing, technical descents, and often poor weather creates a genuinely challenging day. Most riders take 8-12 hours to complete it. The key is pacing - going too hard on the earlier passes will leave you broken for Hardknott and Wrynose at miles 90-95. Nutrition and hydration are critical. Feed stations during the sportive are at Pooley Bridge (mile 30), Keswick (mile 60), and Greenodd (mile 85) [VERIFY: exact feed station locations].
Training tip: Build up to the Fred Whitton by riding the individual passes first, then linking 2-3 together before attempting the full route. A compact chainset with a 32T or larger rear cassette is highly recommended.
Hardknott & Wrynose Loop🔗
This 48 km (30 mile) loop from Ambleside is the quintessential Lake District challenge, tackling both Hardknott and Wrynose passes with around 1,350 metres of climbing. The route heads west through Little Langdale, climbs Wrynose from the west, descends to Cockley Beck, then immediately tackles the eastern side of Hardknott. After the brutal summit, descend to Eskdale, turn around, and face Hardknott's steeper western side before returning over Wrynose again.
This route sounds short on paper but will take 3-5 hours for most riders due to the brutal climbing and technical descents that require careful speed control. There are limited facilities en route - stock up on food and water in Ambleside before starting. The Three Shires Inn in Little Langdale offers a good halfway refreshment stop. Completing both passes in a single ride is a badge of honour among British cyclists and excellent preparation for the Fred Whitton Challenge.
Keswick Lakes Loop🔗
Starting from Keswick, this 64 km (40 mile) loop takes in Honister, Newlands, and Whinlatter passes while circling Derwentwater and Buttermere. The route heads south through Borrowdale alongside Derwentwater, climbs Honister Pass, descends to Buttermere, then climbs Newlands Pass back towards Keswick before finishing with Whinlatter. Total elevation gain is approximately 1,450 metres, making this a challenging but achievable day for intermediate cyclists.
This route showcases some of the Lake District's most beautiful scenery without the extreme gradients of Hardknott and Wrynose. The Honister slate mine café at the summit of the first climb makes an excellent stop, while Buttermere village offers several cafés and the Bridge Hotel for refreshments. The relatively sheltered Borrowdale valley section at the start provides a good warm-up before the climbing begins. Allow 4-6 hours for this route depending on fitness and café stops.
Windermere Circuit🔗
For those wanting a Lake District cycling experience without tackling the extreme passes, the 72 km (45 mile) circuit around Lake Windermere offers a more accessible introduction. The route follows quieter roads on both sides of England's longest lake, with rolling terrain and only around 750 metres of climbing. While there are no major passes, there are still several short, punchy climbs that will get your heart rate up.
Starting from Bowness or Ambleside, head north on the eastern shore through Troutbeck, then west to Grasmere before returning south on the western shore through Hawkshead and the villages of Near and Far Sawrey (home of Beatrix Potter's Hill Top farm). The route is well-served with cafés, particularly around Bowness, Ambleside, and Hawkshead. Traffic can be heavy in summer, particularly on the A591 sections, so early morning starts are recommended during peak season.
When to Visit🔗
The Lake District is Britain's wettest region - Seathwaite in Borrowdale receives over 3,000mm of rain annually, making it the wettest inhabited place in England. This means cyclists need to be realistic about weather conditions whenever they visit. That said, timing your visit can significantly improve your chances of good weather and reduce traffic congestion.
May to September offers the best cycling conditions. Temperatures range from 12-20°C, daylight extends until 9pm in midsummer, and while rain is still common, you're less likely to encounter the persistent drizzle and low cloud that characterises winter. May and early June are particularly good - the fells are green, lambs are in the fields, and tourist numbers are lower than July-August. The Fred Whitton Challenge is held in early May, which gives a good indication of when the passes are reliably clear of snow and ice.
July and August bring warmer temperatures (15-22°C) and the longest days, but also peak tourist traffic. The narrow Lake District roads can become very congested, particularly on weekends and school holidays. Hardknott and Wrynose see tourist coaches attempting the passes, which creates significant challenges on the single-track sections. If visiting in summer, start rides very early (6-7am) to avoid the worst traffic and heat. The weather in summer can be glorious, but thunderstorms are common in the afternoons, particularly over the higher fells.
September is many experienced Lake District cyclists' favourite month. Schools have returned, tourist numbers drop significantly, and the weather can still be excellent with temperatures around 12-18°C. The fells take on autumn colours, and there's a crispness to the air that makes hard climbing more bearable. Daylight starts to reduce, so plan rides carefully to finish before dark.
October to April is off-season for Lake District cycling, and with good reason. Snow and ice can close the higher passes, particularly Hardknott, Wrynose, and Kirkstone. Even when open, conditions can be treacherous with ice, flooding, and extremely strong winds. Temperatures drop to 2-10°C, and heavy rain combined with short days (dark by 4pm in December) makes cycling challenging. That said, crisp winter days do occur, and the lakes can be stunning without the summer crowds - just be prepared for sudden weather changes and have solid contingency plans.
Weather tip: Check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) Lake District forecast before riding. Their summit forecasts are far more accurate than general weather apps for mountain conditions. If cloud base is below 500m, visibility on the passes will be poor.
Where to Stay🔗
Choosing the right base is important for Lake District cycling - the region is larger than many visitors expect, and transfers between different valleys can add significant time to your riding day. Look for accommodation with secure bike storage, ideally a locked bike shed or garage rather than just 'bike-friendly' rooms.
Keswick in the northern Lakes is an excellent base for cyclists, with direct access to Honister, Newlands, and Whinlatter passes. The town has good facilities including bike shops (Keswick Bikes on Main Street offers repairs and rentals), numerous cafés, and a range of accommodation from hostels to hotels. The location allows for loops that avoid retracing routes. Parking can be challenging in summer.
Ambleside in the central Lakes provides access to Kirkstone, Wrynose, and Hardknott. It's the best base for the Hardknott-Wrynose loop and is close to Grasmere and Coniston. The town has excellent facilities including Biketreks bike shop, which offers high-quality repairs and has extensive local route knowledge. Accommodation ranges from camping to luxury hotels. Ambleside is busy in summer and parking is limited.
Windermere and Bowness offer the widest range of accommodation and easiest access by public transport (train station), but are the most touristy areas and further from the major passes. Better for the Windermere circuit and easier rides than for tackling the serious climbs. Country Lanes cycle shop in Windermere provides repairs and advice.
Penrith sits just outside the National Park to the east but offers excellent access to Kirkstone and the Ullswater area. It has good transport links (M6 motorway, train station), lower accommodation costs than in-park options, and less tourist congestion. The ride into the Lakes from Penrith is pleasant through rolling countryside. Arragon Cycles is a well-regarded local bike shop.
Getting There & Around🔗
By car is the most practical option for cycling trips to the Lake District. The M6 motorway runs along the eastern edge of the National Park with junctions at Penrith (J40), Kendal (J36), and south at Carnforth (J35). From the M6, the A591 provides the main north-south route through the Lakes, though it can be very busy. Car parking is available in all major towns, but fills early in summer - arrive before 9am or book accommodation with parking. Most bike racks will fit inside cars with rear seats folded, but for multiple bikes, a roof rack or towbar carrier is recommended.
By train is possible but requires planning. The West Coast Main Line stops at Penrith and Oxenholme (for Windermere). The branch line from Oxenholme to Windermere takes bikes but spaces are limited (2-4 bikes per service) and must usually be reserved in advance. From Penrith or Windermere, you can ride into the Lakes, though from Windermere you'll face traffic getting out of town. Bike boxes are not required on UK trains, but bikes must not block aisles or doorways.
By air for international visitors, Manchester Airport (2 hours by car) and Newcastle Airport (1.5 hours) are the nearest major airports. Car hire is straightforward from both. Bikes can be taken on flights in bike bags or boxes - most airlines charge £40-60 each way for bike carriage. Liverpool and Leeds-Bradford airports are also options, though further away.
Getting around locally within the Lake District by public transport is challenging with bikes. Some local buses have bike racks (the 555 Keswick-Lancaster service in summer), but capacity is very limited. Taxis generally won't take bikes. For most cyclists, a car base or riding out from accommodation is the practical option.
Practical Information🔗
Road Conditions🔗
Lake District roads are unlike anything else in the UK. Many of the pass roads are single-track with passing places rather than two full lanes. This means constant awareness of approaching vehicles and sometimes reversing to the nearest passing place to allow cars to pass. Hardknott, Wrynose, and Newlands are all predominantly single-track. Kirkstone and Honister are wider but still have narrow sections.
Cattle grids are common across the passes - these are gaps in the road surface covered with metal bars that prevent sheep from crossing. They can be slippery when wet and should be crossed carefully, ideally at right angles. Some cyclists prefer to walk across them. Road surfaces vary significantly. Main routes like the A591 are well-maintained, but pass roads can have potholes, loose gravel, and debris from the hillsides above. After heavy rain, streams run across roads, and slate or stone debris accumulates. Always descend with caution.
Traffic Considerations🔗
The Lake District receives 18 million visitors annually, and most arrive by car. In summer (July-August) and on weekends year-round, traffic can be extremely heavy. The A591 through Ambleside and along the eastern shore of Windermere becomes a slow-moving car park on summer Saturdays. Tourist coaches attempt the passes, including Hardknott and Wrynose, despite warning signs. Meeting a coach on a single-track section requires patience and often means cyclists stopping completely to let them pass.
Early starts are essential in summer - riding from 6-10am means you'll encounter far less traffic and have the passes largely to yourself. Be visible with bright clothing and good lights, as some road sections are tree-covered and dark even in daytime. Most Lake District drivers are accustomed to cyclists and will wait patiently for safe passing opportunities, but always pull over when safe to let faster traffic past, particularly on narrow sections.
Cafés & Fuel Stops🔗
The Lake District is well-served with cyclist-friendly cafés, though many close in winter or have reduced hours. Key stops include: Hobnob Café in Ambleside - popular with cyclists, good coffee and cakes. Square Orange Café in Keswick - excellent breakfasts, bike-friendly. Honister Slate Mine Café at Honister Pass summit - perfectly placed mid-route, good food, spectacular views. The Three Shires Inn in Little Langdale - traditional pub food, good for Hardknott-Wrynose loops. Syke Farm Tearoom in Buttermere - homemade cakes, on the Keswick loops.
Water is available from taps at public toilets in most villages, and there are numerous streams, though water quality varies and purification is recommended if drinking from natural sources. Carry at least two large bottles on longer rides as some routes have limited refill opportunities. Energy food is best purchased before rides as village shops have limited options and premium prices.
Weather🔗
Lake District weather is famously unpredictable and wet. The region's position between the Irish Sea and the Pennines means it catches weather systems from the west, which dump their moisture as they hit the mountains. Seathwaite in Borrowdale is England's wettest inhabited place with over 3,000mm annual rainfall. Even in summer, rain is likely on any given day. Conditions can change rapidly - blue skies at valley level can become low cloud and rain on the passes within an hour.
Essential gear for Lake District cycling includes: waterproof jacket and overshoes (not water-resistant - actually waterproof), arm and leg warmers for temperature changes, spare layers in a backpack or jersey pockets, and clear or light-tinted glasses for low light conditions. Many experienced riders carry a lightweight emergency shelter and foil blanket for mechanical issues on exposed passes. Mobile phone signal is patchy on many passes, so don't rely on it for weather updates or emergencies.
Check forecasts before riding and be prepared to change plans if conditions deteriorate. The Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) provides detailed fell forecasts including cloud base height, which is critical for pass riding. If cloud base is forecast below 500m, visibility on passes will be poor. Strong winds are common on exposed sections - gusts can push you across the road on descents. If winds are forecast above 40mph, consider lower-level routes.
Bike setup: A compact chainset (50/34) or smaller is highly recommended. Pair it with an 11-32T cassette minimum, or ideally 11-34T or larger. You'll want every gear you have on Hardknott and Wrynose. Disc brakes provide better control on long, steep descents, particularly in wet conditions.