French Riviera Cycling
Nice and the Côte d'Azur offer cycling's ultimate contradiction: Mediterranean beaches and Alpine cols within a single ride. From sea level to 1,500m summits in under an hour, this compact region delivers year-round riding, legendary pro training climbs like Col de la Madone, and the scenic drama of three corniche coastal roads. With Nice's international airport literally at the waterfront, you can fly in and be tackling the hinterland climbs the same afternoon.
Cycling Nice and the Côte d'Azur means accessing some of Europe's most versatile terrain from a single base. The French Riviera's hinterland rises abruptly from the Mediterranean, creating a natural amphitheater of challenging climbs within 30km of Nice's Promenade des Anglais. This geography has made Nice a favored training base for professional teams, particularly in early season when northern Europe remains frozen.
The region's cycling infrastructure reflects its status as a two-wheeled playground. Well-maintained roads snake through perched medieval villages, dedicated bike lanes follow the coast between Nice and Monaco, and a café culture attuned to Lycra-clad customers means espresso stops are never far away. The combination of challenging climbing, Mediterranean climate, and world-class logistics explains why this compact corner of southern France punches well above its weight in cycling circles.
What sets Nice apart is the sea-to-summit formula. Start at zero meters elevation, climb any of a dozen serious cols, and return to swimming temperature water for recovery. The vertical gain rivals Alpine resorts, but without the seasonal limitations or transfer logistics. This guide covers the iconic climbs that define Riviera cycling, practical routes combining multiple ascents, and the essential logistics for making Nice your cycling base.
Iconic Climbs🔗
The Côte d'Azur's reputation rests on its collection of benchmark climbs. These aren't Tour de France household names, but they're legendary within the pro peloton as training grounds and Strava battlegrounds. Each has distinct character, from the Monaco Riviera glamour of Col d'Èze to the remote Alpine seriousness of Col de Turini.
Col de la Madone🔗
Col de la Madone above Menton holds mythical status as Lance Armstrong's benchmark test climb during his Tour de France dominance. The 13.6km ascent from Menton's Italian border gains 927m at an average 6.8%, with the steepest sections reaching 10%. Armstrong's sub-31-minute record stood as a power meter rite of passage, though modern training analysis questions those numbers.
The climb itself is steady rather than savage. Early kilometers through Menton's northern suburbs average 7-8%, settling into a rhythm through hairpins as you gain the ridgeline. The Madonna statue summit offers sweeping views across the Italian Riviera, though most cyclists are fixated on their elapsed time. Descend the same route or continue over the top to loop back via Sospel for a 70km day with 1,500m climbing.
[VERIFY: Current Strava KOM time and segment details for Col de la Madone from Menton]
Col d'Èze🔗
Col d'Èze delivers maximum suffering in minimum distance. The 8.2km ascent from Nice's eastern suburbs to the perched village of Èze averages 6.9%, but that statistic masks the savage opening kilometers at 9-10% that immediately sort the peloton. This is Nice's go-to interval climb, close enough for multiple repeats, steep enough to hurt, scenic enough to justify the pain.
The climb follows the Grande Corniche road (D2564) with constant Monaco views across the bay. Early morning sees training groups attacking the lower ramps, while afternoons bring recreational riders and tourists heading to Èze's medieval village. The summit offers multiple descent options: back down to Nice, continue to La Turbie and Monaco, or push onward to Col des Quatre Chemins for extended climbing.
Col de Turini🔗
Col de Turini (1,607m) represents serious Alpine climbing just 40km from the Mediterranean. Made famous by the Rallye Monte Carlo's dramatic special stages, the col offers multiple approaches with the classic route from Sospel gaining 1,180m over 24.7km at 4.8% average. Don't be fooled by that gentle gradient—the climb unfolds in waves with sustained 8-9% sections through dense forest.
The northern approach from Sospel via the D2566 is the cyclist's choice: consistent gradient, well-surfaced, and building to the final steep ramps before the summit hotel. Temperature drops noticeably as you climb—pack a vest even on warm days. The descent toward Moulinet and L'Escarène completes natural loop options combining Turini with Col de Braus or returning via Menton and the coast.
Plan for 90-120 minutes of climbing depending on fitness. Summit facilities are limited to the historic hotel (closed outside ski season), so carry nutrition. This is a genuine mountain col with weather that can turn quickly—check forecasts before committing to loops that put Turini at the halfway point.
Col de Vence🔗
Col de Vence (963m) is Nice's most accessible proper climb, making it ideal for first rides in the region or active recovery days. The 18.8km ascent from Nice via Saint-Jeannet averages just 5.1%, though the opening ramps out of the city hit 8-9% before settling into a cruising rhythm. Unlike the steeper coastal cols, Vence allows you to find sustainable pace while still accumulating 960m of climbing.
The route passes through typical Provençal landscape: olive groves, perched villages, and increasingly expansive views back toward Nice and the coast. The summit plateau rather than a defined pass, with the actual high point marked more by GPS than dramatic signage. Descend the same route or continue to Coursegoules and Gréolières for extended loops into the Pre-Alps. This is training ride territory—steady climbing without the showpiece drama of Madone or Turini.
Col de Braus🔗
Col de Braus (1,002m) combines legitimate difficulty with relative obscurity. The southern approach from L'Escarène climbs 11.5km at 6.5% average with pitches to 10%, gaining 750m through forested switchbacks that feel remote despite being just 30km from Nice. This is a working col rather than a tourist destination, meaning quieter roads and more authentic mountain atmosphere.
Braus works best as part of loop combinations, particularly paired with Col de Turini for serious days (the Two Cols Loop adds Col de Castillon for triple-col sufferfests). The descent toward Sospel is fast and technical, demanding concentration after the climbing effort. Facilities are minimal—a small restaurant at the summit closes unpredictably. Treat Braus as a genuine mountain challenge requiring self-sufficiency.
Col de la Bonette🔗
Col de la Bonette (2,715m) technically falls outside the Côte d'Azur, but its status as Europe's highest paved road makes it an irresistible day trip from Nice. The 120km round trip from Nice via the Route des Grandes Alpes includes 2,500m+ of climbing, with the final ascent from Jausiers to the col gaining 1,589m over 23.2km at 6.8% average.
This is a full-day expedition requiring early starts, packed nutrition, and weather monitoring. The col's high altitude and exposed position create genuine Alpine conditions—snow is possible into June. The final Cime de la Bonette loop adds 2km at the summit, pushing the official high point to 2,802m. Only attempt Bonette when weather is stable and you have strong climbing legs. The remoteness and elevation make mechanical issues or bonking serious concerns.
[VERIFY: Col de la Bonette seasonal opening dates and current road conditions for 2025 season]
Best Routes🔗
Individual climbs define the region, but crafted routes combining multiple cols, coastal sections, and strategic café stops create memorable days in the saddle. These routes balance challenge with scenery, logistics with spontaneity. All assume Nice as the start/finish point, though variations are noted.
Three Cols Loop🔗
Distance: 140km | Climbing: 2,800m | Difficulty: Hard
The Three Cols Loop tackles Turini, Braus, and Castillon in a single ride from Nice, creating the region's most complete challenge. Start early, riding north from Nice through the Paillon Valley to L'Escarène. The first ascent up Col de Braus (11.5km at 6.5%) serves as the warm-up, dropping into Sospel for the first refuel opportunity.
From Sospel, attack Col de Turini's northern ramps (24.7km at 4.8%). The sustained nature of this climb tests endurance and pacing—start too hard and the final kilometers become survival mode. Summit Turini by late morning to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed upper slopes. Descend south toward Moulinet, then climb Col de Castillon (6.9km at 6.3%) for the third col.
From Castillon, descend to Menton and follow the coastal road back to Nice. This final 30km provides recovery time while maintaining interest with the Monaco passage and coastal scenery. Total time for strong riders runs 6-7 hours including stops, with less experienced cyclists planning 7-8 hours. This is a genuine challenge requiring solid climbing fitness and nutritional planning.
Col de la Madone from Menton🔗
Distance: 70km from Nice | Climbing: 1,500m | Difficulty: Moderate-Hard
The classic Madone ride starts with the coastal run from Nice to Menton (30km of flat to rolling terrain), positioning you for the benchmark climb fresh. Begin the ascent from Menton's northern edge, timing your effort for the full 13.6km to the Madonna statue summit. This is where you set your personal record—steady pacing over the 6.8% average gradient yields better times than early aggression.
From the summit, either return via the same route for a pure time trial effort, or continue over the top to Sospel. The Sospel option adds 20km and 500m climbing but provides variety and access to cafés in Sospel before the final coastal return to Nice. The full loop takes 4-5 hours for most riders, making it perfect for half-day rides with afternoon recovery.
Grande Corniche Coastal Classic🔗
Distance: 80km | Climbing: 1,200m | Difficulty: Moderate
For days when your legs need a break from steep cols but you still want quality riding, the Grande Corniche loop delivers scenery and sufficient climbing without the suffer. Start from Nice, climbing Col d'Èze (8.2km at 6.9%) to reach the historic Grande Corniche road built on Napoleon's orders. The high corniche road runs east with constant Mediterranean views to your right and sheer cliffs to your left.
Continue past Èze to La Turbie with its Roman trophy monument, then descend to Monaco via the spectacular hairpins. Return to Nice via the coastal Basse Corniche (N98), passing through Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat. This route showcases the Riviera's iconic scenery while providing moderate training stimulus. Plan 3-4 hours with stops at Monaco's port area and Villefranche's waterfront for the full tourism-cycling experience.
Gorges du Loup Circuit🔗
Distance: 95km from Nice | Climbing: 1,600m | Difficulty: Moderate-Hard
The Gorges du Loup circuit explores the Pre-Alps west of Nice, trading the coastal glamour for dramatic limestone gorges and authentic Provençal villages. Head west from Nice through Cagnes-sur-Mer to Vence, then follow the D2210 into the Gorges du Loup. The road through the gorge rolls rather than climbs, passing waterfalls and swimming holes before reaching Pont-du-Loup.
From Pont-du-Loup, climb to Gourdon (8km at 6.5%), one of France's most dramatically perched villages. The gradient is consistent enough to settle into rhythm while the drop-off views demand occasional glances. Descend via Coursegoules and the Col de Vence route to return to Nice. This western loop offers a change of scenery from the standard eastern cols, with excellent cafés in both Gourdon and Vence for mid-ride breaks.
When to Visit🔗
Nice's Mediterranean climate enables year-round cycling, but seasonal nuances affect the experience significantly. The region's reputation as a pro training base stems partly from its reliable winter conditions when northern Europe is frozen.
February through May offers ideal conditions: mild temperatures (12-22°C), minimal rainfall, and quieter roads before summer tourism peaks. This is prime training season, with pro teams visible on standard routes. March and April particularly deliver spring perfection—comfortable climbing temperatures without summer heat, though pack layers for variable mountain weather.
Summer (June-August) brings heat that makes climbing challenging. Coastal temperatures exceed 30°C regularly, and climbing cols in afternoon heat becomes survival rather than enjoyment. Early morning starts (6-7am) mitigate the heat but require discipline. Traffic increases significantly, particularly on coastal roads and Monaco approaches. July and August see peak tourism—book accommodation well ahead and expect crowded descents.
September through November rivals spring for optimal riding. September still carries summer warmth (20-25°C) without the crowds, while October and November offer crisp mountain air and occasional clear days with visibility across to Corsica. This is the local favorite season—established rhythm on the climbs, pleasant descent temperatures, and that autumn light that makes everything photogenic.
Winter (December-January) remains rideable most days, though altitude matters. Coastal rides and lower cols stay accessible, but Turini can see snow and Bonette closes entirely. Daytime temperatures range 8-15°C at sea level, colder on climbs. This is when the pro peloton arrives—spotting WorldTour teams training on Col de la Madone becomes routine. The winter period offers the cheapest accommodation and least crowded roads, trading some comfort for authentic training conditions.
[VERIFY: Average monthly temperatures and rainfall for Nice 2025 cycling season]
Where to Stay🔗
Base location determines daily ride logistics. Nice city offers maximum flexibility and infrastructure but requires riding through urban sections to reach climbing. Smaller coastal towns provide immediate access to quieter roads but limit evening options.
Nice City remains the default choice for most cyclists. Central neighborhoods like Vieux Nice or Libération offer walking distance to restaurants, bike shops, and the Promenade. The airport sits 7km west, making arrivals and departures trivial. Multiple hotels cater to cycling groups, with secure bike storage and early breakfast options. The urban exit adds 20-30 minutes to reach clean climbing roads, but the infrastructure and variety compensate.
Villefranche-sur-Mer sits 6km east of Nice, offering a quieter base while maintaining proximity to eastern climbs and Monaco. The waterfront hotels provide postride swimming and a more resort atmosphere. Access to Èze and the corniche roads is immediate, though reaching Vence or western routes requires backtracking through Nice.
Menton positions you directly at the base of Col de la Madone, making benchmark efforts a morning routine. The Italian border proximity and quieter atmosphere appeal to cyclists prioritizing training over nightlife. Access to Nice requires a 30km coastal ride, so plan self-contained days based from Menton.
Vence trades coastal convenience for Pre-Alps immersion. This medieval town sits 400m elevation with immediate access to Col de Vence and Gorges du Loup routes. The atmosphere is authentically Provençal rather than Riviera resort. Reaching the eastern cols (Madone, Turini) requires committing to bigger days. Vence suits cyclists seeking quieter roads and a more traditional French experience.
Sospel serves as a mountain base for serious training blocks. At 350m elevation surrounded by cols (Turini, Braus, Castillon), every ride involves significant climbing. Limited accommodation and evening options mean this is for focused training rather than vacation cycling. The trade-off is unbeatable access to the region's hardest riding with minimal flat kilometers.
Practical Information🔗
Getting There🔗
Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) sits 7km from city center, making it among Europe's most convenient cycling destinations. Numerous airlines serve Nice from UK, northern Europe, and North America. The airport's proximity means you can land, collect your bike, and be riding that afternoon—no lengthy transfers or complicated logistics.
Bike transport follows standard EU airline policies. Most carriers accept bikes as checked baggage in approved bags or boxes, with fees ranging €50-150 depending on airline and booking class. Pre-book bike space when purchasing tickets—capacity is limited. Several local bike shops offer box/bag rental if you're arriving without a case.
Public transport within the region is excellent. Trains connect Nice to Menton, Cannes, and Monaco frequently and cheaply (€3-6). Bikes travel free on trains outside peak hours, making station-to-station rides practical. The 100 bus line runs the entire coast from Menton to Cannes and accepts bikes in the luggage bay—useful for one-way coastal rides or bad weather days.
Bike Rental & Shops🔗
Nice supports a mature cycling infrastructure with multiple quality shops. Holiday Bikes Nice (multiple locations) offers rental fleet from aluminum endurance bikes to carbon race machines, with sizing and fit included. Expect €40-80 daily or €200-400 weekly depending on specification. Book ahead for peak season and specific sizing requirements.
For mechanical support, Mondovélo Nice (Place Garibaldi) provides full workshop services with English-speaking mechanics familiar with fixing rental bikes and travelers' machines. Open daily including Sundays during season. Velocentre Nice (near the port) stocks extensive parts and operates as a pro-level workshop. Both shops understand the "I'm flying home tomorrow" urgency when mechanicals occur.
[VERIFY: Current bike shop names, addresses, and contact details for Nice 2025]
The Café Scene🔗
Nice's cycling café culture rivals Belgium. Mid-ride espresso stops are ritual rather than necessity, with multiple cyclist-friendly establishments on standard routes. Unlike Anglo coffee shop culture, expect quick coffee service at the bar rather than lingering over laptops—this is fueling, not coworking.
Sospel's central square cafés see constant cycling traffic, making them natural stops on Turini and Braus loops. Le Café de France does solid espresso and simple sandwiches, with bike parking visible from tables. Menton's waterfront offers numerous options before or after Madone efforts—the promenade cafés understand cyclists ordering single espressos and hogging tables post-ride.
Èze village at the Col d'Èze summit provides tourist-priced but conveniently located refreshment. The premium over valley prices buys dramatic terraces with sea views—worth it for the experience if not the value. Gourdon similarly trades altitude for cost, but the setting justifies the splurge. On longer loops, pack extra nutrition rather than relying on summit facilities that may be closed unexpectedly.
Combining with Monaco🔗
Monaco sits 20km east of Nice, naturally integrated into most eastern col routes. The principality works best as a mid-ride waypoint rather than destination—cycling through Monaco's tunnels and harbor area provides Formula One nostalgia but the roads themselves are unremarkable. The value comes from the natural routing: climb Èze, descend to Monaco, return via the coast creates satisfying loops without contrivance.
The dedicated coastal cycle path between Nice and Monaco makes car-free commuting between the two feasible, though the path gets crowded with recreational users. For training purposes, use the parallel N98 road instead—busier but faster. Monaco's compact size means you transit through quickly; the cycling interest lies in the surrounding cols rather than the principality itself.
If staying in Monaco itself, recognize the premium pricing without corresponding cycling advantages. Nice provides equivalent access to the cols with broader accommodation and dining options at lower cost. Monaco makes sense for motorsport fans or those combining cycling with other Monaco interests, less so for pure cycling trips.