Overview🔗

The Engadin Valley—"Inn Valley" in the local Romansh language—stretches 80 km (50 miles) through southeastern Switzerland, divided into Upper and Lower Engadin regions. St. Moritz sits at the heart of the Upper Engadin, a broad valley floor at 1,800m altitude flanked by peaks reaching 4,000m. What makes cycling in St. Moritz and the Engadin exceptional is the combination of high-base altitude, world-class pass roads, and infrastructure built for an international clientele. This isn't undiscovered territory—St. Moritz has hosted Winter Olympics and draws wealthy visitors—but that means impeccably maintained roads, excellent services, and a culture that understands high-performance sport.

The four major passes surrounding the Engadin create a cycling playground unmatched in concentration of quality climbing. The Albula Pass (2,315m) delivers 25 km of beautifully engineered switchbacks through dramatic gorges. The Julier Pass (2,284m) offers a more direct, sustained grind with Roman-era history. The Bernina Pass (2,328m) sits adjacent to Switzerland's only glaciers south of the main Alpine chain, with views across to Italy. The Maloja Pass (1,815m) barely qualifies as a pass—more a gentle ramp connecting Engadin to Italy—but features prominently in routes threading these climbs together. Each pass offers distinct character while maintaining Swiss standards of road surface and gradient engineering.

The altitude defines Engadin cycling as much as the passes themselves. Base elevation around St. Moritz sits at 1,800m, meaning you're training above the altitude where physiological adaptations begin (generally 1,500-1,800m). Summit elevations exceed 2,300m, putting you firmly into thin-air territory where effort feels harder and recovery takes longer. For visiting cyclists, this creates both challenge and opportunity—the difficulty level amplifies compared to equivalent climbs at sea level, but the training stimulus is real. Professionals and serious amateurs have long used the Engadin for altitude training blocks, taking advantage of the high base coupled with quality roads and facilities.

The cycling season in the Engadin is compressed by altitude—late June through September represents prime time, with July and August offering the most reliable weather. Snow closes passes from October through May, and even in midsummer, you'll need arm warmers for high-altitude descents. The compressed season means roads can be busy during peak summer, particularly on weekends when Swiss and German cyclists flock to the passes. But start early, ride midweek, or venture into September, and you'll experience these legendary climbs in relative solitude.

Classic Climbs🔗

Albula Pass (Passo dell'Albula)🔗

The Albula Pass represents Swiss mountain road building at its finest—25 km (15.5 miles) of precision-engineered switchbacks climbing from Preda (1,789m) to the summit at 2,315m, gaining 526 metres over a sustained 4.2% average gradient that never shocks but never relents. What distinguishes the Albula from more brutal Alpine climbs is the consistency: gradients hover between 3-6% for most of the ascent, with only brief sections touching 8%. This makes it rideable for a wide range of abilities while still delivering a serious workout at altitude, where the thin air amplifies perceived effort.

The north side from Preda begins in dense coniferous forest, the road climbing through a series of perfectly graded hairpins that open views back down the narrow Albula valley. This lower section feels enclosed, the forest canopy filtering light, before the road emerges above treeline around 2,000m. Here the landscape transforms—alpine meadows dotted with traditional stone buildings give way to rocky terrain as you approach the summit. The final 5 km traverse open mountainside with expansive views south toward the Engadin and north to jagged peaks. The Strava segment Albula Pass from Preda has been crowned by over 12,000 riders and remains a bucket-list climb for European cyclists.

The south side descending (or climbing from) La Punt in the Engadin is shorter—18 km (11 miles) with 523m elevation gain at 5.8% average—and more exposed. The gradient kicks slightly harder here, with sections at 7-8% between hairpins, though nothing approaches the brutality of French or Italian Alpine climbs. What makes this side memorable is the openness—from La Punt, you can see the road switchbacking up the mountainside, a ribbon of perfect asphalt etched into alpine terrain. The descent in either direction is pure joy: smooth surface, well-engineered corners, and sightlines that let you carry speed safely through sweeping bends.

Road surface is exemplary on both sides—freshly maintained annually before the short season opens. Traffic is moderate in summer, heavier on weekends, but the road is wide enough (mostly 6-7 meters) that overtaking vehicles rarely feel threatening. The Albula forms part of a historic trade route and hosts the Albula Railway tunnel below—you'll see trains emerging from the mountain as you climb. Summer temperatures at the summit typically reach 10-15°C (50-59°F) even when valley floors hit 25°C, so pack an extra layer for the descent. The pass closes approximately October through May; check current status before riding. [VERIFY: exact dates of typical seasonal closure]

Julier Pass (Pass dal Güglia)🔗

Where the Albula showcases Swiss engineering finesse, the Julier Pass delivers ancient history and raw Alpine character. At 2,284m (7,493 feet), the Julier ranks among Switzerland's highest paved passes and follows a route used since Roman times—two weathered Roman columns still stand near the summit, marking an alpine crossing that predates modern Switzerland by nearly 2,000 years. The standard ascent from Silvaplana in the Engadin Valley climbs 15.7 km (9.8 miles) with 671m elevation gain at 4.3% average, but those averages mask significant variation. This is a climb of distinct sections, each with different character and intensity.

From Silvaplana (1,815m), the first 3 km roll gently through the broad Engadin valley floor—barely climbing, more a warm-up stretch. Then the road tilts upward at a consistent 5-7% for the next 8 km, winding through a narrow valley flanked by steep mountainsides. This middle section represents the sustained work—not steep enough to force you out of rhythm, but relentless enough that the altitude makes itself felt. Breathing becomes noticeably harder, particularly for visitors not acclimatized to 2,000m+ elevations. Around km 11, the valley opens and gradients ease to 3-4% for the final push across alpine plateau to the summit.

The summit area itself feels exposed and dramatic—barren rock terrain with the two Roman columns (Columnas Julieras) standing as weathered sentinels. On clear days, the views extend across the Engadin Valley to Italy's Bernina Range, with glaciated peaks dominating the southern horizon. The exposed summit can be brutally windy—westerlies are common and can turn the final kilometers into a battle. The descent toward Tiefencastel and Chur on the north side is longer (23.5 km) and more technical, dropping through spectacular gorge scenery, though most cyclists based in St. Moritz ride the south side as an out-and-back or loop back via different passes.

Road surface is good throughout, though winter damage at high altitude means rougher patches near the summit—expect broken edges and occasional potholes. The Julier remains open year-round (one of few Swiss Alpine passes that does), though winter conditions make it rideable only June-September for most cyclists. Traffic is heavier than Albula, as this forms a main route between the Engadin and northern Switzerland. Ride early to avoid peak traffic and experience the pass in morning light, when the sun illuminates the eastern valley walls. The Julier pairs beautifully with the Albula or Maloja for loop routes, creating classic Engadin days of 100+ km with 2,000m+ climbing.

Bernina Pass (Passo del Bernina)🔗

The Bernina Pass offers something the Albula and Julier don't—proximity to active glaciers and views across to Italy. At 2,328m (7,638 feet), this is the highest pass in the Eastern Alps and the only Swiss pass crossing to the south side of the main Alpine chain without tunneling. The climb from Pontresina in the Engadin Valley covers 18.3 km (11.4 miles) with 684m elevation gain at 3.7% average—making it the gentlest of the major Engadin climbs by gradient, though altitude and exposure create their own challenges.

The ascent begins modestly, winding through the pretty resort village of Pontresina before entering the Val Bernina. For the first 10 km, gradients barely register—2-4% as the road traces the valley floor alongside the Bernina railway. This gentle approach lulls you into complacency before the road tilts upward more decisively for the final 8 km at 5-7%. This upper section passes the turquoise Lago Bianco (White Lake, 2,234m), an alpine reservoir whose milky glacial color contrasts dramatically with the surrounding dark rock. Above the lake, the road makes its final push to the summit hospice building, with views opening to the Bernina massif's glaciated peaks—Piz Bernina (4,049m) and Piz Palü (3,900m) dominating the skyline.

What sets the Bernina apart is the landscape's severity. This is high Alpine terrain—barren, rocky, and dramatic. The treeline lies far below; up here, only hardy grasses and lichens survive. The geological boundary between crystalline rock of the Alps and the sedimentary rock of the southern ranges is visible in the contrasting rock colors. For cycling tourists, the Bernina offers a chance to experience high-mountain terrain without the brutal gradients of steeper passes. The railway running parallel is the famous Bernina Express, a UNESCO World Heritage route—you'll see the red trains winding through the valley, offering a sense of scale.

The descent continues south into Italy (Poschiavo valley), creating the option for a true trans-Alpine ride finishing in Tirano. Most Engadin-based cyclists ride out-and-back or loop back via Italy and the Forcola di Livigno, though this creates a substantially longer day. Road surface is good on the Swiss side, though the exposed high-altitude location means wind and weather can deteriorate rapidly. The summit is often 5-10°C colder than St. Moritz, with snow possible even in July—carry adequate clothing. The Bernina closes typically October through May, though exact dates vary with snow conditions. The gradient may be gentle, but the altitude and scenery make this an essential Engadin experience.

Maloja Pass (Pass da Malögia)🔗

The Maloja barely qualifies as a pass by Alpine standards—the south side from Chiavenna climbs dramatically (1,290m over 30 km), but the north side from the Engadin is a gentle 11 km at 2.9% average that feels more like a valley road than a mountain pass. Yet the Maloja holds significance in Engadin cycling as the gateway to Italy and a key link in multi-pass loop routes. At just 1,815m (5,955 feet) summit elevation—barely higher than St. Moritz itself—the Maloja represents the valley's western boundary, where the Upper Engadin drains toward Lake Como and Italy.

From Silvaplana, the climb (if you can call it that) follows the Inn River upstream past a chain of alpine lakes—Lej da Segl, Lej da Silvaplauna—with peaks rising steeply on both sides. The gradient is so gentle that strong riders barely register it as climbing, though the beauty compensates for lack of physical challenge. The landscape is quintessentially Engadin—larch forests, traditional Romansh villages, and the peculiar light quality that comes from altitude and thin air. At Maloja village, the road reaches the watershed and begins its spectacular descent toward Italy, dropping through tight hairpins with views across to Italian peaks.

Most cyclists based in St. Moritz encounter the Maloja as a transit section—riding down to Chiavenna for Italian espresso and gelato, or incorporating it into loops that combine Julier or Albula climbs. The true climbing challenge of the Maloja lies in the reverse direction: from Chiavenna (333m) to Maloja village (1,815m) represents 1,482m of elevation gain over 30 km at a sustained 6.8% average. This Italian side throws you straight into 8-10% gradients from Chiavenna, climbing through dramatic Val Bregaglia with massive granite walls rising on either side—this is serious Alpine climbing that holds its own against the other Engadin passes.

Road surface is excellent throughout—the Maloja remains open year-round and sees consistent maintenance. Traffic can be heavy, particularly on summer weekends when Italian day-trippers head up to St. Moritz. The Maloja works beautifully as part of the classic "Four Passes" loop (Maloja-Julier-Albula-Bernina), a 170 km epic with 3,200m of climbing that ranks among Switzerland's finest long cycling days. Alternatively, the out-and-back to Chiavenna from St. Moritz (80 km, 1,500m elevation gain) makes a satisfying day trip combining the gentle Maloja descent with the challenge of climbing back via the Italian side.

Best Routes & Loops🔗

Classic Engadin Loop: Julier-Albula Circuit🔗

This 90 km (56 mile) loop with 1,750m climbing threads together the two most iconic Engadin passes in a format that's challenging but achievable for most fit cyclists. Start from St. Moritz and head west through Silvaplana to begin the Julier climb. The 15.7 km ascent serves as your warm-up—though at altitude, "warm-up" is relative. From the Julier summit, descend the north side toward Tiefencastel, a thrilling 23 km descent through gorge scenery that requires full concentration on tight corners and changing gradients.

At Tiefencastel (851m), turn east to begin the Albula ascent from Preda. This represents the loop's centerpiece—25 km of sustained climbing back above 2,000m, with the switchbacks offering different perspectives on the dramatic Albula valley. By the time you reach Albula summit (2,315m), you've been above 2,000m twice and spent significant time in thin air—legs and lungs will be feeling it. The descent back to the Engadin via La Punt is shorter and faster, depositing you back in the valley for a gentle 15 km valley road return to St. Moritz.

This loop showcases Engadin cycling at its best—two contrasting passes with different climbing characters, dramatic descents, traditional mountain villages, and the constant presence of high peaks. Road conditions are excellent throughout, though the Julier north side requires strong descending skills. Traffic is moderate; start early (7-8am) to enjoy quieter roads and avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in high summer. Allow 5-6 hours with photo stops and a cafe break in Tiefencastel. The loop works equally well in reverse (Albula first), though most riders prefer tackling Julier while fresh, saving Albula's more consistent gradient for when they've found their rhythm at altitude.

Four Passes Challenge: Complete Engadin Circuit🔗

For experienced cyclists seeking a genuine challenge, the Four Passes loop combines Maloja, Julier, Albula, and Bernina in a 170 km (106 mile) epic with approximately 3,200m of climbing. This is a full-day undertaking (8-10 hours) that demands fitness, pacing discipline, and respect for altitude. Start pre-dawn from St. Moritz to maximize daylight and beat traffic. Descend the Maloja to Chiavenna, Italy—saving the long Italian-side climb for later—then turn north to tackle Julier. The 1,500m descent-then-climb from Chiavenna to Julier summit represents the route's first major challenge.

From Julier summit, descend to Tiefencastel and immediately begin Albula—no recovery, just straight into another 25 km climb. This back-to-back sequence (Julier descent → Albula ascent) tests pacing and nutrition discipline. By the time you summit Albula, you're likely 4-5 hours in with 100+ km and 2,000m climbing completed. The descent to La Punt and valley road to Pontresina offers brief respite before the final challenge: the Bernina climb. Though the gentlest gradient of the four, the Bernina comes when fatigue and accumulated altitude stress make everything harder.

From Bernina summit, you face a choice: descend back to St. Moritz via the Engadin (adding 30 km), or continue to Italy via Poschiavo and return via Forcola di Livigno for a true trans-Alpine loop (adding 60+ km and another pass). Most mortals choose the Engadin return. This loop represents serious Alpine cycling—the equivalent of riding multiple Tour de France stages back-to-back at altitude. Fueling, hydration, and pacing are critical. Weather can change rapidly; carry full rain kit, extra layers, and more food than you think you'll need. Only attempt this with a proven base of fitness and experience at altitude.

Bernina Express Route: St. Moritz to Tirano🔗

For cyclists seeking adventure beyond Switzerland, the ride from St. Moritz to Tirano, Italy via the Bernina Pass and Poschiavo valley offers Alpine scenery with the bonus of Italian culture at day's end. This 60 km (37 mile) point-to-point route with 900m climbing (and 1,600m descending) follows the famous Bernina Express railway, creating the option to return by train if desired. Start in St. Moritz and head toward Pontresina to begin the Bernina climb. The gentle gradient makes this a relatively relaxed ascent by Alpine standards, giving you energy to enjoy the dramatic glacier and mountain scenery.

From Bernina summit (2,328m), the route transforms into one of Switzerland's most spectacular descents—23 km dropping to Poschiavo (1,014m) through landscapes that shift from barren high-Alpine to lush southern valleys. The road winds through tight switchbacks above Lago di Poschiavo, a turquoise gem set in a narrow valley, before entering the Italian-influenced village of Poschiavo itself. Here the architecture and culture shift noticeably—Italian language, Mediterranean food, and a warmer climate create a different atmosphere from the Germanic Engadin.

The final 25 km to Tirano continue downward through the Val di Poschiavo, following the railway and Poschiavo River through increasingly Mediterranean landscape—vineyards appear, stone villages cling to hillsides, and by the time you reach Tirano (429m), you've descended nearly 2,000m from St. Moritz. Tirano offers excellent Italian restaurants, espresso, and the surreal experience of starting breakfast at 1,800m in Switzerland and finishing lunch at 400m in Italy. The Bernina Express train returns to St. Moritz multiple times daily (reservation required for bikes), making this a perfect one-way adventure without needing a car shuttle. The entire route offers exceptional road surfaces and dramatic scenery that justifies its UNESCO World Heritage designation.

When to Visit🔗

The Engadin cycling season is compressed by altitude—peak season runs mid-June through mid-September, with July and August offering the most reliable weather. High passes typically remain snow-covered until late May or early June, and fresh snow can close them again by late September. The Albula, Bernina, and Maloja usually open in early June, though exact dates vary with winter snowpack. The Julier remains nominally open year-round but becomes rideable only once snow clearing is complete—generally by mid-June at the latest. Check Swiss pass road conditions before traveling, particularly in early season.

July represents peak season—temperatures reach 20-25°C (68-77°F) in the valley, 10-15°C (50-59°F) at pass summits, and the weather stabilizes into a pattern of clear mornings with afternoon thunderstorms. This is also when the Engadin is busiest—Swiss and German cyclists flock to the region on weekends, accommodation is fully booked, and pass roads see consistent traffic. The advantage is guaranteed open passes, long daylight hours (sunset past 9pm), and fully operational services. The disadvantage is crowds, higher prices, and the need to book everything well in advance.

August continues July's pattern but with slightly more settled weather and fewer afternoon storms. This is premium riding time, though again, expect busy roads on weekends and peak pricing for accommodation. Midweek riding in July-August offers the best experience—quieter roads, same excellent conditions, and slightly more flexibility with lodging. For multi-day trips, consider Sunday-Wednesday or Monday-Thursday windows to avoid weekend crowds.

September offers the sweet spot for experienced cyclists willing to accept some weather risk. Temperatures remain rideable (15-20°C valley, 8-12°C at altitude), tourist crowds disperse after Swiss school holidays end around August 20, and the larch forests turn golden—creating spectacular photography conditions. The tradeoff is more variable weather, shorter days (sunset around 7:30pm by mid-September), and the risk of early season snow at pass summits. Some facilities begin closing in September. Check forecasts carefully and carry adequate layers. September riding rewards those who get good weather windows with near-empty passes and ideal temperatures for climbing.

Early season (June) and late season (late September-early October) are for adventurous cyclists only. June sees passes just opening, with potential snow banks still visible at summit areas and cold temperatures (5-10°C at altitude). Late September risks pass closures from fresh snow. Many hotels and restaurants haven't opened (June) or have closed for the season (late September). If you hit good conditions, you'll have passes nearly to yourself, but the risk of wasted travel is real. For most cyclists planning an Engadin trip, July-August guarantees success, while September offers the best experience if weather cooperates.

Where to Stay🔗

St. Moritz🔗

St. Moritz sits at the epicenter of Engadin cycling, offering maximum convenience for accessing all four major passes plus valley roads. The town is expensive—this is one of Switzerland's most exclusive resorts—but the infrastructure for athletes is exceptional. Badrutt's Palace and Carlton Hotel represent the luxury end (and cater to wealthy tourists more than cyclists), but several mid-range options understand cycling needs. The Schweizerhof Hotel offers secure bike storage, bike wash facilities, and hearty breakfasts appropriate for Alpine riding. Hotel Waldhaus am See provides similar services at slightly lower price points.

St. Moritz' advantage is location—you can ride to the base of any pass in 15-30 minutes—plus comprehensive services including multiple bike shops, physiotherapy, sports nutrition stores, and restaurants understanding cyclists' caloric needs. The disadvantage is cost (expect to pay 150-250 CHF per night for decent hotels in peak season) and the somewhat stiff, formal atmosphere. This is an old-money resort, not a laid-back cycling village. Evening entertainment centers on expensive restaurants and bars catering to an international jet-set crowd, not sweaty cyclists comparing Strava times. But if you want perfect logistics for serious riding, St. Moritz delivers.

Pontresina🔗

Five kilometers from St. Moritz, Pontresina offers a more relaxed, mountain-sports-focused alternative at slightly lower prices. This village has deep alpinism roots—it's a traditional mountaineering center—and that ethic extends to cycling. Hotel Kronenhof provides upscale accommodation with excellent cyclist services, while Hotel Steinbock and Hotel Müller offer solid mid-range options (100-180 CHF per night). Pontresina sits directly at the base of the Bernina climb, making that pass the easiest from town, while the other passes remain within easy reach.

The village atmosphere is more authentically Swiss than St. Moritz—fewer international tourists, more genuine mountain culture. You'll find good restaurants (Kronenstübli, Quattro Canti) serving traditional Engadin cuisine at reasonable-for-Switzerland prices. Pontresina has multiple bike shops including Bike School Pontresina (rentals, repairs, guiding). The village works particularly well for families—the vibe is less formal than St. Moritz, with more kid-friendly options. The tradeoff is fewer services overall and a quieter evening scene. For serious cyclists who want riding convenience without St. Moritz prices and atmosphere, Pontresina is ideal.

Silvaplana🔗

Silvaplana sits west of St. Moritz at the base of the Julier climb, offering the most budget-friendly Engadin accommodation (though "budget" is relative in Switzerland—expect 80-150 CHF per night). This is a smaller village with limited services but good access to passes and a more laid-back atmosphere. Hotel Albana offers cyclist-friendly lodging with bike storage and drying rooms. Silvaplana works best for self-sufficient cyclists who don't need extensive services and prefer quiet evenings. The village has a couple of restaurants and a small supermarket, but you'll travel to St. Moritz or Pontresina for bike shops or more dining variety.

The advantage is location for certain loops—you're already at 1,815m, reducing the approach to Julier or Maloja, and the Classic Engadin Loop (Julier-Albula) starts from your doorstep. The disadvantage is limited services and the need for a car or bus to reach other starting points. Silvaplana works well for budget-conscious cyclists or those prioritizing Julier/Maloja riding, but less well for those wanting the full-service experience.

Samedan🔗

Samedan sits in the valley floor between St. Moritz and Pontresina, offering an alternative base with good access to all passes and slightly lower accommodation costs. The village hosts the Engadin Airport (small regional airport used mainly for private planes) and several decent hotels including Hotel Bernina and Hotel Palazzo Mysanus (80-160 CHF per night). Samedan feels like a working Swiss town rather than a resort—locals actually live here year-round, not just serving tourists. This creates more authentic atmosphere but fewer services specifically oriented to high-end visitors.

For cyclists, Samedan offers solid value—you're centrally located, prices are 20-30% below St. Moritz, and the town has sufficient restaurants and services without tourist resort inflation. The tradeoff is less polished infrastructure and no particular cycling-specific advantages. If you're driving or have a car, Samedan works well. On bike alone, St. Moritz or Pontresina offer better convenience. Book accommodation anywhere in the Engadin well in advance for July-August; the region fills completely in peak season.

Getting There & Around🔗

By Air🔗

Zurich Airport is the primary international gateway, offering global connections and Switzerland's best transport infrastructure. From Zurich, the journey to St. Moritz takes approximately 3-3.5 hours via a combination of train connections through Chur. Swiss Rail (SBB) operates frequent services with seamless connections—buy a combined ticket from Zurich Airport to St. Moritz and follow signage to the rail station directly below the airport. The journey requires 2-3 changes depending on routing, but Swiss timing precision means connections work smoothly. Trains accept bikes (reservation required, 15 CHF additional fee), though space is limited in peak summer.

Milan Malpensa or Bergamo airports offer alternative gateways for southern approach, particularly if combining Engadin riding with Italian lakes or Dolomites. From Milan, rent a car (3-hour drive to St. Moritz via Lake Como and Maloja Pass) or take trains via Tirano and the Bernina Express (scenic but lengthy—5+ hours with connections). For direct European connections, Geneva Airport works but requires 6+ hours travel via multiple train changes. Most international cyclists find Zurich the most convenient despite higher Swiss costs.

By Train🔗

Swiss trains offer the most comfortable, reliable, and scenic approach to the Engadin. From Zurich, the route via Chur and the Albula Railway is spectacular—the final section includes UNESCO World Heritage railway engineering including the circular Landwasser Viaduct tunnel. Trains run hourly in summer with guaranteed connections. First class provides extra space and comfort for the 3-3.5 hour journey (120-150 CHF); second class is perfectly adequate (80-100 CHF). Book bike reservations when purchasing tickets.

From southern Europe, the Bernina Express from Tirano to St. Moritz offers one of the world's great railway journeys—2.5 hours climbing from 429m to 1,775m through dramatic Alpine scenery including the Bernina Pass and multiple viaducts. This works beautifully for one-way cycling trips—ride St. Moritz to Tirano, return by train (35 CHF including bike). The Bernina Express requires advance reservation for bikes; book well ahead in summer. Standard regional trains on the same route offer more flexibility with bike space.

By Car🔗

Driving to the Engadin from northern Switzerland, Germany, or Austria follows the A3/A13 motorway south from Zurich through Chur, then climbs through the Julier Pass (open year-round) or through the Vereina tunnel (car shuttle train). From Italy, approach via the Maloja Pass from Lake Como region. Parking in St. Moritz is expensive and limited—most hotels offer parking (20-40 CHF per night), while public parking costs 3-5 CHF per hour with daily maximums. Having a car provides flexibility for exploring different starting points but isn't necessary once based in the Engadin—everything is rideable from a central base.

Rental cars from Zurich Airport offer freedom but cost 80-120 CHF per day plus expensive Swiss fuel and parking. Consider car rental only if combining Engadin riding with other Swiss or Italian destinations. For Engadin-only trips, train access is more economical and stress-free. Swiss motorways require a vignette (annual pass, 40 CHF, purchased at border or gas stations)—failure to display results in significant fines.

Practical Information🔗

Bike Shops & Rental🔗

Schanf Bike in St. Moritz (Via Mezdi 27, +41 81 833 30 20) offers high-end rentals including current-year carbon race bikes (Pinarello, Specialized) for 80-120 CHF per day, including helmet and pedals (bring your own shoes). Multi-day rentals reduce daily rate. Acla Bike (Via Maistra 187, +41 81 833 24 24) provides similar services plus comprehensive workshop repairs. Both shops stock sufficient spares and can handle emergency repairs—Swiss mechanical standards are exceptional.

In Pontresina, Bike School Pontresina (Via Maistra 197, +41 81 834 01 90) offers rentals, guiding, and a well-stocked shop. Gruber Sport (Via Maistra 168, +41 81 842 64 24) handles repairs and carries comprehensive parts inventory. For emergencies on remote passes, carry basic tools including chain breaker, spare tube, CO2 inflators, and tire levers—though Swiss pass roads see enough traffic that flagging down help is usually possible. Mobile phone coverage is generally good, even at pass summits, with Swiss Swisscom network offering best coverage.

Altitude Considerations🔗

The Engadin's elevation significantly affects cycling intensity. Base elevation around 1,800m means you're already at altitude where oxygen partial pressure is reduced approximately 20% compared to sea level. Pass summits exceeding 2,300m push you into ranges where most people experience noticeable performance decrements—power output drops, breathing rate increases, and recovery takes longer. For cyclists arriving from sea level, allow 2-3 days acclimatization before attempting long, hard efforts. Symptoms of inadequate acclimatization include unusual fatigue, sleep disturbances, and headaches.

Stay well hydrated—altitude increases fluid loss through respiration. Drink more than normal, even when not feeling thirsty. Fueling becomes more critical—your body burns more calories at altitude for equivalent work. Many cyclists find they need 10-15% more calorie intake than at sea level for similar efforts. Sun intensity increases significantly with altitude—UV exposure at 2,300m is substantially higher than sea level. Use high SPF sunscreen (factor 50+), reapply frequently, and consider sun-protective clothing. The thin air provides less filtration of UV radiation, making sunburn risk serious.

Altitude training benefits are real but require time—genuine adaptations begin after 2-3 weeks at altitude. Short visits (3-7 days) create training stimulus but not sufficient time for full adaptation. Many professional teams run 2-3 week altitude camps in the Engadin specifically for this. For recreational cyclists on week-long trips, temper expectations—you'll work harder for equivalent speeds, and that's normal at altitude. The experience and scenery justify the reduced performance.

Weather & Safety🔗

Mountain weather in the Engadin changes rapidly. Summer mornings are typically clear and calm, with cumulus clouds building through midday and afternoon thunderstorms possible by 2-4pm. Start rides early (6-8am) to complete major climbing before afternoon instability. Lightning at exposed pass summits is genuinely dangerous—if storms develop while you're at altitude, descend immediately. Do not shelter under isolated trees or structures.

Temperature swings are dramatic—20°C in St. Moritz can mean 8-10°C at pass summits. Descents feel colder due to windchill—40 kph descent speed at 10°C creates effective temperature near freezing. Always carry wind jacket, arm warmers, and leg warmers even on sunny days. Rain is possible any time; pack lightweight waterproof. The Swiss weather service (MeteoSwiss) provides detailed mountain forecasts—check before long rides. Webcams at pass summits offer real-time conditions (search "Julier Pass webcam" etc.).

Emergency services in Switzerland are excellent. Dial 144 for ambulance, 1414 for helicopter rescue (Air Glaciers, REGA). Most Swiss residents carry REGA membership (annual fee includes helicopter rescue coverage); tourists can purchase short-term coverage or rely on travel insurance. Helicopter evacuation from remote passes is common and expensive (10,000+ CHF) without coverage—verify your travel insurance includes mountain rescue. Mobile coverage is generally good, though some valley sections have limited signal. Download offline maps before rides.

Local Etiquette & Tips🔗

Switzerland is expensive—accept this reality before arriving. A sit-down café meal costs 20-30 CHF, restaurant dinner 40-70 CHF, and even a simple sandwich is 8-12 CHF. Budget accordingly. Tap water is safe and high-quality; many cyclists refill bottles at public fountains (found in every village) rather than buying expensive bottled water. Tipping is included in prices; small additional amounts (rounding up or 5-10%) are appreciated for good service but not obligatory.

Swiss road courtesy is exceptional. Drivers give cyclists wide clearance and wait patiently for safe overtaking opportunities. Return this courtesy—ride single file when cars approach on narrow sections, acknowledge drivers who wait, and respect the shared-road culture. Swiss cyclists typically acknowledge each other with a nod or hand raise—this is friendly territory where cycling culture is well-established and respected.

Larch forest trails crisscross valleys and mountainsides—tempting for mixed riding but strictly speaking off-limits for bikes on many hiking trails. Check signage and respect restrictions; trail etiquette violations create conflicts that harm cycling access. Pass road surfaces are impeccable but still require attention—loose gravel in corners (particularly after summer thunderstorms), oil from vehicles, and occasional meltwater across roads demand smooth, controlled riding. Swiss pass descents are fast—respect the limits of your bike handling skills. Over-confidence on descents ends badly.

Sample 3-Day Itinerary🔗

Day 1: Arrival + Shakedown Ride
Arrive St. Moritz, check in, assemble bikes or collect rentals. Afternoon shakedown ride: 40 km valley loop at 1,800m elevation to begin altitude acclimatization. Easy pace, focus on adjusting to altitude. Evening: light dinner, early bed, hydrate well.

Day 2: Classic Engadin Loop (Julier-Albula)
Early start (7am), 90 km with 1,750m climbing. Julier Pass, descend to Tiefencastel, climb Albula, return via Engadin valley. This hits the two premier passes while building altitude adaptation. Allow 5-6 hours. Evening: recovery meal with carbs and protein, gentle stretching.

Day 3: Bernina Pass Out-and-Back or Tirano One-Way
Option A: 70 km out-and-back to Bernina summit from St. Moritz (1,400m climbing). Easier day focusing on enjoying scenery.
Option B: 60 km one-way St. Moritz to Tirano via Bernina Pass, return by Bernina Express train. Italian lunch in Tirano, train back to St. Moritz. Perfect combination of riding and tourism.

This itinerary balances serious riding with altitude adaptation and recovery. Stronger cyclists can add the Four Passes loop or additional days. Adjust based on fitness and altitude response. The Engadin rewards multi-day trips—the combination of passes, scenery, and high-altitude training stimulus creates experiences that single-day visits can't match. Budget 4-5 days minimum to do the region justice.