
Italy's Ultimate Cycling Challenge
The Stelvio Pass β or Passo dello Stelvio β stands at 2,758 meters, making it the highest paved mountain pass in Italy and one of cycling's most iconic ascents. With 48 numbered hairpins snaking up from Bormio, gradient ramps exceeding 14%, and a place in Giro d'Italia legend as the race's Cima Coppi (highest point), this is the climb that every serious cyclist dreams of conquering.
Few climbs command the reverence that the Stelvio Pass does in the cycling world. Located in the Ortler Alps on the border between Lombardy and South Tyrol, this isn't just another mountain pass β it's cycling's Everest, a 21.5km ribbon of asphalt that climbs 1,533 vertical meters from Bormio through 48 precisely numbered hairpin bends to reach the roof of Italy.
The Stelvio has featured in the Giro d'Italia since 1953 and regularly awards the Cima Coppi prize to the first rider over its summit when included in the race route. On clear days, the view from the top stretches across alpine peaks in three countries. But the real draw isn't the destination β it's the journey through those relentless switchbacks, each one a small victory on the way to the summit.
What makes the Stelvio truly special is its accessibility paired with genuine difficulty. The gradient averages 7.1% from Bormio β manageable for most experienced cyclists β but sections hit 14% and the thin air at altitude turns the final kilometers into a true test of endurance. This is a climb that rewards preparation, pacing, and persistence in equal measure.
The Three Approachesπ
The Stelvio can be climbed from three distinct sides, each offering a different character and challenge. Most cyclists tackle the iconic eastern approach from Bormio, but the western ascent from Prato allo Stelvio and the Swiss approach via Umbrail Pass both deserve consideration.
From Bormio (East) β The Classic Ascentπ
Distance: 21.5km (13.4 miles) | Elevation gain: 1,533m | Average gradient: 7.1% | Max gradient: 14% | Hairpins: 48 numbered switchbacks
This is the route that appears in every cycling magazine and Instagram feed. Starting from Bormio at 1,225m, the climb begins deceptively gently through the town before the road tilts upward in earnest after the first few hairpins. The famous numbered bends β painted white on the road and marked with roadside stones β count down from 48 to 1 as you ascend, providing both navigation aids and psychological milestones.
The lower sections through the forest maintain a steady 7-8% gradient with occasional steeper ramps. Around hairpin 34, you emerge from the treeline into open alpine terrain where the full scale of the climb reveals itself β the road visible ahead as it zigzags relentlessly upward. The steepest sections come between hairpins 20-15, where gradients touch 12-14% and tired legs start to burn. The final 5km above hairpin 10 average 8% but feel harder as altitude affects breathing and the road is completely exposed to the elements.
Expect between 1.5 to 3 hours to reach the summit depending on fitness level. Strong climbers might crack it in 90 minutes, but most cyclists take 2-2.5 hours. There's no shame in taking your time β the views demand regular stops, and pacing yourself is essential at this altitude.
From Prato allo Stelvio (West) β The Longer Challengeπ
Distance: 24.3km (15.1 miles) | Elevation gain: 1,808m | Average gradient: 7.4% | Max gradient: 12% | Hairpins: 48 (different numbering from Bormio side)
Starting from just 950m elevation in Prato allo Stelvio (Prad am Stilfserjoch), this western approach is 3km longer and gains 275m more elevation than the Bormio side, making it the tougher proposition on paper. The gradient is marginally steeper on average at 7.4%, but more importantly, it's relentless β there are fewer opportunities to recover on gentler sections.
The Prato side has its own series of numbered hairpins, though these are less famous than the Bormio switchbacks. What it offers instead is a wilder, quieter experience β you'll encounter far fewer cyclists and vehicles on this approach. The scenery is arguably more dramatic too, with the road carved into steep mountainsides and views across the Ortler massif. The final approach to the summit from this direction is particularly impressive, with a series of tight hairpins leading to the summit hotels and restaurants.
Budget 2-3.5 hours for this ascent. It's genuinely harder than the Bormio side, but completing it gives you bragging rights that the Instagram crowds don't have.
From Switzerland via Umbrail Passπ
The third approach isn't a direct ascent to the Stelvio, but rather a route from Switzerland via the Umbrail Pass (Giogo di Santa Maria) that connects to the Stelvio summit via a short linking section. Starting from Santa Maria Val MΓΌstair in Switzerland, you climb 16.3km to reach the Umbrail Pass at 2,501m, then continue 3.8km to join the Stelvio at its summit.
This route is significant because it allows you to create spectacular loop rides combining multiple high passes. The Umbrail is quieter than either side of the Stelvio itself, with an average gradient of 8.6% that makes for a serious warm-up before tackling the descent and re-ascent of the Stelvio from whichever side you choose.
Hairpin by Hairpin: The Bormio Ascentπ
Understanding the character of the climb helps you pace it correctly. Here's what to expect as you work through those 48 legendary switchbacks:
Hairpins 48-35 (First 7km): The climb begins gently through Bormio before establishing a rhythm at 6-8%. You'll pass through mixed woodland with limited views but good shade on hot days. This section is crucial for finding your sustainable pace β go out too hard here and you'll pay for it higher up. The road surface is generally excellent, recently resurfaced in most sections.
Hairpins 34-21 (km 7-14): You emerge from the treeline around hairpin 34, and suddenly the scale of what you're attempting becomes clear. The road ahead is visible climbing across the mountainside in a series of tight switchbacks. The gradient settles into a steady 7-8% through this section. Around hairpin 30, there's a small fountain where you can refill bottles β don't skip this on hot days. Hairpin 26 offers the first really spectacular photo opportunity looking back down at the switchbacks below.
Hairpins 20-11 (km 14-18): This is where the Stelvio shows its teeth. Gradients ramp up to 10-12% with short sections touching 14%. Hairpins 18-15 are particularly brutal, with steep ramps between the switchbacks that force you into your easiest gears. By now you're above 2,300m and the thinner air becomes noticeable β breathing gets harder and your power output drops. Mental strength matters as much as physical fitness through this section.
Hairpins 10-1 (Final 3.5km): The gradient eases slightly to 7-8% but don't be fooled β at 2,500m+ elevation, this feels harder than 12% at sea level. The landscape is completely barren alpine terrain now, with snow visible on surrounding peaks even in summer. Hairpin 5 marks the final push, and suddenly the summit buildings come into view. The final hairpin bends around to deliver you to the summit at 2,758m, marked by the iconic Stelvio Pass sign that every cyclist photographs.
Pacing Strategyπ
The biggest mistake cyclists make on the Stelvio is starting too hard. The first 7km feel manageable, which tempts you to push harder than sustainable. The result? You're suffering badly by hairpin 20 and barely surviving the final kilometers. Instead, ride the first third at a pace that feels almost easy, maintain steady effort through the middle section, and accept that the final third will hurt regardless of how well you've paced it. Target a power output 10-15% below your hour threshold if you use a power meter, and don't be afraid to drop into your easiest gears early. There's no prize for saving gears for later β use them when you need them.
Combining with Other Passesπ
While the Stelvio is spectacular on its own, combining it with nearby passes creates legendary rides that rank among Europe's toughest cycling challenges.
Stelvio + Umbrail Pass Loopπ
Distance: 80km | Elevation gain: 2,700m
From Bormio, climb the Stelvio via the classic 48 hairpins, descend the Swiss side to Santa Maria Val MΓΌstair, then climb back over the Umbrail Pass to rejoin the Stelvio summit before descending back to Bormio. This loop gives you two high alpine passes and stunning variety of scenery across Italian and Swiss terrain. The Umbrail side is significantly quieter, offering a peaceful contrast to the busier Bormio ascent. Plan 5-7 hours depending on fitness and photo stops.
The Ultimate Trilogy: Stelvio + Gavia + Mortiroloπ
Distance: 135km | Elevation gain: 4,800m
This is one of the hardest single-day rides in the Alps, combining three of Italy's most feared climbs in one brutal loop. From Bormio, climb the Stelvio, descend to Ponte di Legno, tackle the Gavia Pass (2,621m), descend to Edolo, then face the legendary Mortirolo (average gradient 10.5%, max 18%) before returning to Bormio. Only attempt this if you're in serious climbing form β the Mortirolo alone is harder than most entire rides, and tackling it after already climbing the Stelvio and Gavia requires exceptional fitness and mental fortitude.
Warning: The trilogy is not to be underestimated. Even professional cyclists treat this with respect. Ensure you have support, carry plenty of food and water, and have a bail-out plan if conditions deteriorate or fatigue sets in.
Stelvio from Both Sidesπ
For a more focused challenge, climb the Stelvio from Bormio, descend the Prato side, then climb back up from Prato and descend to Bormio. This 90km route with 3,500m of climbing lets you experience both classic ascents without the additional complexity of other passes. It's hard enough to be a serious achievement but simpler logistically than the trilogy. The Prato side is noticeably harder, so tackling it second when you're already tired makes this tougher than it appears on paper.
When to Visitπ
The Stelvio Pass is only accessible during summer months due to heavy snowfall at altitude. The road typically opens in late May or early June and closes in late October or early November, depending on snow conditions. [VERIFY: exact typical opening/closing dates for recent years]
June: The road has just opened and you'll encounter lingering snow banks at higher elevations, creating dramatic scenery. Traffic is lighter than peak season but weather can be unpredictable with cold temperatures (5-10Β°C at the summit) and possibility of snow showers. Excellent if you want a quieter experience but be prepared for challenging conditions.
July-August: Peak season with the best weather reliability. Expect summit temperatures of 10-15Β°C and warm conditions in the valleys (25-30Β°C in Bormio). The road is busy with cyclists, motorcyclists, and tour buses, particularly on weekends. Early morning starts (before 8am) help avoid traffic and heat. These months offer the most stable weather windows for attempting multi-pass routes.
September: Many consider this the ideal month. Traffic decreases after school holidays end, weather remains generally stable, and temperatures are comfortable for climbing (cooler than July/August but not cold). The autumn light creates stunning photography conditions. However, the weather window is closing and cold snaps can occur.
Giro d'Italia timing: When the Giro d'Italia includes the Stelvio (typically in May, requiring special snowplowing), the roads are closed to traffic on race day. However, riding the route the day after the stage has become a popular tradition, with thousands of cyclists attempting the climb. This creates an incredible atmosphere but also means extremely crowded roads. If you want to experience this bucket-list moment, book accommodation many months in advance.
Pro tip: Check the official pass status at www.provincia.bz.it/meteo/passistradali for real-time information on road conditions and closures. Weather can change rapidly at altitude β even in summer, carry a waterproof jacket and arm/leg warmers for the descent.
Where to Stayπ
Three main base towns serve the Stelvio, each offering different advantages for cyclists.
Bormio: The most popular choice, sitting at the base of the classic Stelvio ascent. This historic spa town offers excellent accommodation options from budget hotels to upscale spa resorts. Multiple bike shops provide rentals, repairs, and local route knowledge. The town has a good selection of restaurants and cafΓ©s, plus thermal baths perfect for recovery days. Bormio also provides easy access to the Gavia Pass and serves as the ideal base for the trilogy route.
Recommended: [VERIFY: specific bike-friendly hotels in Bormio with secure storage and breakfast timing suitable for early starts]
Prato allo Stelvio (Prad am Stilfserjoch): A smaller, quieter village at the base of the western ascent. This is ideal if you want a more peaceful atmosphere or plan to focus on the less-traveled western side of the pass. Accommodation options are more limited but generally good value. The German-speaking South Tyrol culture here feels distinctly different from Italian Bormio.
Livigno: Located 30km north of Bormio over the Foscagno Pass, Livigno is a duty-free town popular with cyclists. While not directly at the base of the Stelvio, it offers budget accommodation and dining due to tax-free status. The ride from Livigno to Bormio and up the Stelvio makes for a substantial day with around 2,500m of climbing total. Consider this as a base if you're planning a longer stay in the region and want variety in your riding.
Practical Informationπ
Getting Thereπ
Nearest airports:
β’ Innsbruck, Austria (165km, 2.5 hours) β Closest option with direct connections to Bormio via rental car or transfer services
β’ Bergamo (BGY) (180km, 2.5-3 hours) β Good budget airline connections, car rental available
β’ Milan Malpensa (MXP) (200km, 3 hours) β Most international connections but furthest option
Car rental is the most flexible option, allowing you to transport your bike and explore the region. Most rental companies accept bikes in protective cases or bags. Alternatively, some cycling tour operators and hotels offer airport transfer services with bike transport β book these well in advance during peak season.
Altitude Considerationsπ
At 2,758m, the Stelvio summit is high enough that altitude affects performance noticeably. While true altitude sickness is rare below 3,000m, expect reduced power output (typically 8-12% less than at sea level), labored breathing, and slower recovery. If you live at sea level, don't expect your usual climbing watts β accept that you'll be slower than your power numbers suggest you should be.
Give yourself a day or two at moderate altitude (Bormio at 1,225m is perfect) before attempting the climb. Stay well hydrated β the air is dry at altitude and you'll lose more fluid than you realize. If you're planning multiple high passes in successive days, the cumulative fatigue plus altitude effects can be significant. Build rest days into ambitious itineraries.
Weather & Conditionsπ
Mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable. You can start in warm sunshine in Bormio (25Β°C) and encounter near-freezing temperatures with rain or even snow at the summit 90 minutes later. Temperature drops roughly 6Β°C for every 1,000m gained, so expect the summit to be 10-15Β°C colder than the valley.
Essential kit for the descent:
β’ Waterproof jacket (not just a gilet)
β’ Arm and leg warmers or knee warmers minimum
β’ Gloves β even summer gloves make descending much more comfortable
β’ Clear or light glasses for descending in changeable light
Check weather forecasts specific to mountain areas (not just valley forecasts) and be prepared to turn back if conditions deteriorate. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July-August β plan to summit by early afternoon at the latest. If caught in bad weather at the summit, the hotels/restaurants there offer shelter while storms pass.
The Summit Experienceπ
The summit of the Stelvio isn't a pristine mountain peak β it's a developed area with hotels, restaurants, a motorcycle museum, and souvenir shops. While this might disappoint purists, it means excellent facilities after your climb. The main landmark is the large 'Passo dello Stelvio 2758m' sign where every cyclist takes their trophy photo. Arrive early in the day for less crowded photos.
Several restaurants serve hot food and drinks β prices are high but this is a mountain summit so it's expected. The Italian hot chocolate at the summit cafΓ©s is legendary and worth the splurge as a reward. Restrooms are available but expect to pay a small fee (50 cents to 1 euro).
On clear days, the views from the summit are spectacular across the Ortler Alps. The road visible snaking down both sides of the pass provides perspective on what you've just achieved. Take time to look back at those 48 hairpins below β the sense of accomplishment is profound. If visibility is poor, don't linger too long β the descent is challenging enough in good visibility.
Descent safety: The descent requires full concentration. Motorcycle and car traffic can be heavy, road surfaces become slippery when wet, and 48 hairpins demand constant braking. Don't let cold hands compromise your braking β stop to warm up if necessary. Take your time and stay alert.
The Stelvio Pass represents one of cycling's ultimate challenges β not the hardest climb in the Alps by any measure, but certainly one of the most iconic. Those 48 hairpins, the altitude, the history, and the sheer scale of the achievement make this a bucket-list climb that lives up to the hype. Whether you tackle just the Bormio side or attempt the full trilogy with the Gavia and Mortirolo, you'll understand why generations of cyclists have made the pilgrimage to this Italian giant.