What Anti Tourism Means for your Cycling Holiday in Girona

Trouble in Cycling Paradise?🔗

With Sea Otter Europe just finished closing it's doors - we take a look at the anti tourism movement in Girona, it's impact on the cycling industry there, and if it should discourage you going to Girona for your next cycling trip.

Girona, Spain, is known as one of the best destinations for cycling in the world. Offering a unique blend of historic city, a tranquil climate and fantastic landscapes and roads, it's long been a destination for cycling. The started in 2006 when Lance Armstrong and his band of rockstar US Postal Riders moved to the city. Girona is undeniably famous worldwide for cycling.

Since Mr Armstrong, there have been tonnes of professional cyclists that moved to Girona and teams too. Today, hundreds of professional cyclists and triathletes call it home. One of the more iconic cycling teams - EF Education-EasyPost - call it their home for both men's and women's team - with a full Service Course just outside the city. With an international airport in Barcelona a little more than an hour away, and with France so close, it makes an ideal base for cycling - which was one of the main reasons the US Postal Cycling Team moved there all those years ago.

Anti Tourism in Girona🔗

There was a strong and steady backlash against tourism across Girona and Spain across 2024. A protest with an estimated turnout of over 100,000 took place in the Canary Islands in April 2024, with cries from locals that it was buckling under the pressure of mass tourism. We have also seen other destinations have seen locals protest in a similar manner. That includes protests against tourism in Girona and Palma on the Balearics.

Within Girona, there has been a particular backlash against cycling tourism and the perceived damage that is causing to the local neighbourhood that has made Girona such a fantastic destination in the first place. Due to the international appeal of cycling in Girona, there are many businesses are owned in some shape or form by expats - this is true for some of the most successful cycling and cycling catering businesses across the city. There are a number of Catalan owned cycling businesses in the city, but they have been able to reach a much smaller audience - perhaps due to their digital presence being mainly in Spanish and Catalan. Simply put, when you already live in Spain you are must less likely to come to Girona for a cycling holiday. Especially when contrasted with a damp cold Europe. Additionally, disposable income is statistically lower in Spain, so catering to these wealthier countries makes sense.

These same successful businesses big and small have suffered from anti tourism sentiments and attitudes in recent months, from smashed windows and stolen signs to plastered on stickers and graffiti - it has made businesses lose money and confidence just as they are recovering from the stand still they saw in COVID-19. This is a huge challenge for the business owners, who will have incurred additional costs.

The biggest issues cited are over-burdening of housing and infrastructure by cyclists - who are ultimately on their holidays and are in a completely separate mindset to residents going about their daily lives. This has meant a huge increase in financial returns for apartments to be let for cyclists - particularly in Barri Vell.

In Catalan, Barri Vell can be translated as 'Old Neighbourhood', with emphasis on the neighbourhood. Barri Vell as the historic centre for Girona is rightly a desirable location. It enjoys easy proximity to restaurants, cycling shops, and cafes. However, it is controlled strongly by design guides that ensure the character remains and is protected for everyone to enjoy. It is by far the most famous neighbourhood in Girona.

There is the argument that cycling brings a lot to Catalonia, and whilst in economic terms that is true, the rise of cycling in Girona and the demand has had direct implications on increasing the rents of the locals who have lived in for generations in the area.

Ultimately, controls on Tourism are going to be hard to get right and it will be an every One group are challenging local government to reduce the economic reliance on Tourism and an increase in Tourism tax to make subsidies for businesses and neighbours most impacted by cycling tourism in Girona.

Spain is seeing a backlash against tourism in recent years, and Girona is no exception. Additionally, with a lot of recent passion politically in Girona there is a real feeling of love for the city and it is something anyone from Girona is immensely proud of. And we think rightly so. But should it put you off cycling in Girona? Here's a few things to consider.

If you are interested, you can read a translation of the Manifest for Anti Tourism.

Events in Girona🔗

Over the past few years, we have seen a major uptake in major cycling events coming to the city. From the Traka to Sea Otter Europe - this sees a huge influx of people across the world converge on Girona and expect it to live up to their expectations. This puts a huge strain of tourism on Girona - where thousands expect to take part and enjoy the city to it's fullest potential. Hotel and AirBnB prices go through the roof on this weekend and it seems this trend will long continue.

The Traka in particular has been seen by some as a playground for rich tourists rather than the locals - with people flying in from Australia and United States to compete due to the increased appeal of Gravel Cycling.

Similarly, the Temps de Flores brings people to the city by the coach load but unlike the Traka or the Sea Otter Europe - attendees are not cyclists. I would look to avoid the city during this time because the city is extremely busy! For more tips and tricks, check our city guide on Girona.

Above these, there are also some amazing festivals that happen in Girona that are related to the Catalan language.

Should anti tourism sentiment put you off a cycling trip in Girona?🔗

No. Not at all. However, there are some things to think about with the anti tourism movements in mind.

Girona is not Disneyland. Although you are likely going to go on a vacation, that does not mean that you should treat it like a wonderland. Girona is like a delicately balanced ecosystem - and a bit of respect for the city will go a long way to making your trip more enjoyable. Most of these will go without saying - but here are 5 points to think about:

Be respectful🔗

Beautiful historic streets such as those found in Barri Vell echo profusely. It's also a dense area, with many apartments towered above the winding streets. This means noise can travel at an alarming rate. Say hi to people, and do not be shy. There's a lot to learn about Catalonia and Girona if you are willing to talk to locals!

Use the bins provided for your litter, and please don't throw your gel wrappers or even banana peels. A short term banana peel in your pocket is far better compared to peels that damage biodiversity and take a good while to degrade.

One Way System🔗

Barri Vell or the Old Town is a one way system. You have to head north, and it's not allowed to ride South. If you get this wrong, you could risk a fine come your way from the local police. Regardless, I see many cyclists and big groups not heeding this warning, or simply do not know.

Businesses could also help share this information with their customers? Bike Breaks, a company that closed down in the Covid-19 Pandemic used to give out this information readily when you were hiring a bike. I have not seen this replicated since.

A resident would expect tourists to follow the rules they have never questioned, and we should do the same.

Catalan Language and Culture🔗

Girona is in Catalonia, and is proudly Catalan. This means that whilst most locals do speak Spanish, you will find most of the signage and conversations happen in Catalan. If you are comfortable doing so, why not consult a phrase book to figure out what phrases are in Catalan? This shows a respect for the local Catalan language, and costs you nothing.

Most locals also speak Spanish, and you will find some people in Girona also able to speak French.

Food🔗

Like most Europeans, Catalans love food. There is a reason why the best restaurant in the world was in Girona for 3 years in a row. Catalans will be happy to show you their local dishes and favourite places - and these will often give you a better experience of Girona, the local traditional dishes.

Vichy Catalan, perhaps the best sparkling water is bottled just south of Girona. It's wonderful slightly-salted feel goes perfectly with food.

Wine🔗

Catalonia is also a major player when it comes to producing wine. Whilst we may all more more comfortable with Rojca - it's possible to support more local businesses and reduce your environmental footprint by drinking wine from vines that create the oxygen you breathe. Make the most of this!

The wine from the Empordà and Gironès region in Girona is a local product, and you can get decent table wine even from the Spar in Barri Vell.

Bike Shops🔗

This one is a bit tricky. A lot of the cycling related businesses in the city are currently owned by Expats. Therefore, supporting truly local cycling businesses built by those that are originally from Girona or Catalonia is fairly tricky. That said, most of the businesses employ many Catalans and locals. Therefore, choose wisely, but maybe branch outside your comfort zone and push to find your cup of coffee at the small unknown Taverna rather than at one of the cycling cafes.

That said, if you feel strongly about this, there are a few cycling shops in the town.

Additionally, Girona in particular has amazing smaller brands producing clothing nearby, with Tactic on the outskirts of Girona and Sismic over in Olot! Both of these brands produce cycling clothing in the city, so maybe stick to these brands when you are thinking about buying yourself a souvenir!

Conclusion🔗

Whilst anti tourist protests in Girona and Spain is certainly a growing movement - it is both mature and reasonable to try and see it from the eyes of the people that live there. As cyclists, we should be respectful, and recognise that we are privileged to take a holiday to enjoy the city and surrounding areas. We do not think it should rule it out as a destination for cycling. We hope that both sides are able to realise this.

If you have any thoughts on this, or want to offer any insights yourself, get in touch with contact at rides.bike